Travels in Kamtschatka, during the years 1787 and 1788, Volume 2Lesseps, Jean-Baptiste-Barthélemy, baron de
History
Travels in Kamtschatka, during the years 1787 and 1788, Volume 2
Lesseps, Jean-Baptiste-Barthélemy, baron de
Kamchatka Peninsula (Russia) -- Description and travel
In the afternoon of the 23, I quitted the river Maya for another,
larger and more rapid, called the Aldann[74]; but I merely crossed it,
in order to gain a habitation on the other side, opposite to the mouth
of the Maya[75].
I found there some marines belonging to M. Billings’s expedition,
who advised me to embrace the opportunity of a number of horses of
burthen, lately arrived, and that would on their return convey me as
far as _Amgui_. According to my itinerary, I was to go by water to
_Belskaïa-pereprava_, which is in the usual course from Okotsk to
Yakoutsk, but in going by way of Amgui I should considerably shorten
it. This certainty, and the happy chance that provided me with horses,
induced me to alter my previous plan.
I paid my guides[76], and as their orders were to leave the boat at
Belskaïa-pereprava, which was a hundred and fifty wersts farther, they
continued their course on the Aldann. They were not a werst from me,
when I repented the having dismissed them. The Yakouts, to whom the
horses belonged, and who were apprehensive of fatiguing them too much,
heard with regret that I intended to make use of them. Not daring
openly to refuse me, they endeavoured to escape by stealth: they were
pursued, and by dint of promises brought back. To make sure of them we
were obliged to shut them all up in one isba, from which they were not
permitted to come out till they had consented to conduct me to Amgui;
the precaution had in the mean time been taken of selecting ten of the
best horses for my use.
After a good night’s rest, which effectually recovered me from my
slight indisposition, I gaily mounted my horse, accompanied by the
Yakouts, who had been lectured by Golikoff, and were become more
docile. I was astonished at their good humour, which made them sing the
whole way.
Their music is by no means agreeable, and consists of a monotonous and
continual shake in the throat. They are however great improvvisatori.
Their words cost them no labour or efforts of genius, and the subject
is derived from whatever passes before them, or occurs to their mind.
If a bird flies by their side, they will make a song of it that shall
last for an hour. Not that their imagination accumulates ideas; the
song, on the contrary, is nothing more than an endless repetition of
the words, _Lo! the bird in his flight!_
For the space of a hundred wersts we travelled across a moving swamp,
in which our horses sunk so deep that we were obliged to alight in
order to assist in extricating them; the rest of the way was not so
bad. In the midst of a large wood, I saw upon the border of a lake
two fishermen employed in making their winter provisions. Their whole
habitation was merely a roof made of the bark of trees; when the summer
is at an end, they seek among their relations a less exposed and warmer
retreat.
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