We proceeded to Ghortabah, our old place. Two of the prisoners (about
twelve of whom we had with us), and one of the Turks, died from the
excessive heat. The two couriers that were sent with despatches for the
Government were attacked near this place by the Arabs, and the horse of
one was so injured, that it was necessary to kill him; the man who rode
the horse was also shot through the leg. This was probably in revenge
for the exactions of the Bey of the Camp on the tribes.
On our return to Ghafsa, we had rain, hail, and high wind, and
exceedingly cold--a Siberian winter's day on the verge of the scorching
desert. The ground, where there was clay, very slippery; the camels
reeled about as if intoxicated. The consequence was, it was long before
the tents came up, and we endured much from this sudden change of the
weather. Our sufferings were, however, nothing as compared to others,
for during the day, ten men were brought in dead, from the cold (three
died four days before from heat), principally Turks; and, had there been
no change in the temperature, we cannot tell how many would have shared
the same fate. Many of the camels, struggling against the clayey soil,
could not come up.
Eight more men were shortly buried, and three were missing. The sudden
transition from the intense heat of the one day to the freezing cold of
the next, probably gave the latter a treble power, producing these
disastrous effects, the poor people being sadly ill-clad, and quite
unprepared for such extreme rigour. Besides, on our arrival at the camp,
all the money in Europe could not have purchased us the required
comforts, or rather necessaries, to preserve our health. Cold makes
everybody very selfish. We were exceedingly touched on hearing of the
death of a little girl, whom we saw driven out of a kitchen, in which
the poor helpless little thing had taken refuge from the inclemency of
the weather.
Santa Maria arrived from Ghabs without accident, having scarcely seen a
soul the whole of the way. He certainly was an enterprizing fellow,
worthy of imitation. He calculated the distance from Ghabs to Toser at
200 miles. There are a number of towns in the districts of Ghabs better
built than those of Nefta and Toser; Ghabs river is also full of water
and the soil of the country is very fertile. The dates are not so good
as those of the Jereed. Ghabs is about 130 miles from Ghafsa. We here
took our farewell of Santa Maria; he went to Beja, the head-quarters of
the summer-camp: thence, of course, he would proceed to Algiers, to give
an account of his _espionage_. Next season, he said, he would go to
Tripoli and Ghadames; he had been many years in North Africa, and spoke
Arabic fluently.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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