The houses of Nefta are built generally of brick; some with taste and
luxury; the interior is ornamented with Dutch tiles brought from Tunis.
Each quarter has its mosque and school, and in the centre of the group
of villages is a place called Rebot, on the banks of Wad Nefta, which
serves for a common market. Here are quarters specially devoted to the
aristocratic landed proprietors, and others to the busy merchants. The
Shereefs are the genuine nobles, or seigneurs of Nefta, from among whom
the Bey is wont to choose the Governors of the city. The complexion of
the population is dark, from its alliance with Negress slaves, like most
towns advanced in the Desert. The manners of the people are pure. They
are strict observers of the law, and very hospitable to strangers.
Captain B., however, thought that, had he not been under the protection
of the Bey, his head would not have been worth much in these districts.
Every traveller almost forms a different opinion, and frequently the
very opposite estimate, respecting the strangers amongst whom he is
sojourning. A few Jewish artizans have always been tolerated here, on
condition of wearing a black handkerchief round their heads, and not
mount a horse, &c. Recently the Bey, however, by solemn decrees, has
placed the Jews exactly on the same footing of rights and privileges as
the rest of his subjects.
Nefta is the intermediate _entrepôt_ of commerce which Tunis pours
towards the Sahara, and for this reason is called by the Arabs, "the
gate of Tunis;" but the restrictive system established by the Turks
during late years at Ghadumes, has greatly damaged the trade between the
Jereed and the Desert. The movement of the markets and caravans takes
place at the beginning of spring, and at the end of summer. Only a
portion of the inhabitants is devoted to commerce, the rich landed
proprietory and the Shereefs representing the aristocracy, lead the
tranquil life of nobles, the most void of care, and, perhaps, the
happiest of which contemplative philosophy ever dreamed. The oasis of
Nefta, indeed, is said to be the most poetic of the Desert; its gardens
are delicious; its oranges and lemons sweet; its dates the finest fruit
in the "land of dates." Nearly all the women are pretty, of that beauty
peculiar to the Oriental race; and the ladies who do not expose
themselves to the fierce sun of the day, are as fair as Mooresses.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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