Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
We recrossed the before mentioned plain, opposite the island, where
I observed numerous fragments of pottery, and then ascended the
mountain to the south of it, there being no road fit for camels
by the side of the river. We traversed the deep valleys of this
mountain for about two hours. The rocks present an endless variety
of granite, among which a rose-coloured species is particularly
beautiful. Sienite, and red feldspath, together with granite,
compose this chain. We afterwards descended again to the side
of the river, near one of the small hamlets which compose the
district of Shamet el Wah (شعامة الواح). The bed of
the river here is free from rocks and islands, but its banks, on
both sides, are so narrow, that there is hardly a hundred yards of
cultivable ground. Half an hour farther, we reached the village of
Sak el Djemel (ساق الجمل), belonging to the district called
Wady Debot, and alighted at the Shikh’s house, where we passed
the night. Here I first tasted the country dish which, during a
journey of five weeks, became my constant food; thin, unleavened,
and slightly baked cakes of Dhourra, served up with sweet or sour
milk. From the Dhourra being badly ground, this food is very coarse,
and nothing but absolute hunger could have tempted me to taste it.
_February 25._ I continued along the east bank of the river. The
road the whole of the way to Derr is perfectly safe, provided one
of the natives accompanies the traveller. I every where found the
people to be possessed of a degree of curiosity which I had never
met with before. Whenever we passed a village, often at a full trot,
the men came running out of their houses, and across the fields, to
ask my guide who I was, and what was the object of my journey. The
answer was, that I was sent from Esne to Derr, with letters from
the governor to the Nubian chiefs. They would then enquire after the
contents of the letters, and, that they might do this more at their
ease, would press me to alight, and breakfast with them. One hour and
a half brought us to Wady Syale (وادي سياله). Two hours and
a half, Wady Abdoun (وادي عبدون). Four hours, Wady Dehmyt,
(وادي دهميت). All the villages, as far as Dóngola, are
called _Wady_, or valley. There are always three or four of them
comprised under one general name: thus, Wady Dehmyt extends about
four miles along the bank of the river, and includes upwards of half
a dozen hamlets, each of which has its particular name. Travellers,
therefore, who note down the names of villages in these parts,
will easily be led into mistakes, by confounding the collective
appellation with that of the single hamlet. There are few large
villages; but groups of five or six houses are met with wherever
a few palm trees grow on the banks of the stream, or wherever the
breadth of the soil is sufficient to admit of cultivation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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