Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
We descended again to the bank of the river in one hour, and
passed the village of Darmout (درموت), built partly upon
a rocky island, and partly upon the high rocks of the eastern
shore. The effect of the evening sun upon the black granite islands,
surrounded by the pure[7] stream, and the verdant banks, was very
beautiful. From hence to Tafa the river is studded with numerous
islands. Seven hours and three quarters brought us to El Kalabshe
(القلابشه), the largest Wady, or assemblage of villages,
we had yet passed. Although the plain is very narrow, there are
nevertheless considerable mounds of rubbish and broken pottery,
along the foot of the mountain, indicating the site of an ancient
town; and as there is a large ruin opposite to this place, on the
western bank,[8] we may safely conjecture these to be _Talmis_
and _Contra Talmis_. There are no remains of any edifice on the
eastern side. The two hundred houses which compose the village on
that bank occupy a space of about half an hour in length. In eight
hours and a half we came to El Shekeyk (الشقيق); in eight
hours and three quarters, to Abou Hor (ابو هور). In the course
of this day, I passed several beds of torrents. When the rains are
copious in the mountain, torrents occasionally rush down into the
river, but they never continue longer than two days. These torrents
account for the _momentary_ increase of the Nile in Egypt, during
the winter, when the river is at its lowest. Throughout Nubia,
rain never falls in the valley, some light showers excepted; but
there is a regular rainy season in the eastern mountains, as far as
Suez, which produces abundant crops of wild herbs, and pasturage
for the cattle of the Bedouins who inhabit those districts. I had
occasion to mention a similar phenomenon, in my former Journals,
in the mountains of Eastern Palestine. In the Ghor, or valley of
the Jordan, rain seldom falls, while the mountains on either side
have their regular rainy season. Our host at Abou Hor served us
this evening with the dish called Asyde, which consists of the
green ears of barley boiled in water, and mixed with milk.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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