Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
Two hours and a half from Wady Medyk is Wady el Arab (وادي
العرب), where, besides the Aleykat, Arabs of the tribe of
Gharbye (غربي) have been settled since the period of the
Mohammedan conquest of Nubia. The shore is every where well
cultivated. From three hours and a half, till five hours and a
half, the rock is close to the river, with a narrow footpath on the
bank; the road for camels traverses the rugged sand-rocks and deep
valleys of the mountain. Five hours and a half brought us to Wady
Songary (وادي سنكاري); six hours and a half, to Korosko
(قرسكو). Here the shore widens, and a grove of date-trees
begins, which lines the banks of the river as far as Ibrim. Groups
of houses are now met with at every hundred yards, which render it
difficult to determine the exact limits of each village. At seven
hours, is Beshyra Nerke (بشير نرقه); seven and a quarter,
Shakke (شقّه); eight hours, Kherab (خراب). Here are some
heaps of hewn stones, the remains of ancient edifices, from which
the village has taken its name (Kherab signifying ruined). Nine
hours, Wady Oeshra(وادي عشرا). Nine and a half, Wady Diwan
(ديوان). Ten and a half, Derr, (الدر), the chief place
between Egypt and Dongola. I do not remember to have seen, in any
part of Egypt, fields more carefully cultivated than are those
between Korosko and Derr. The peasants’ houses too are larger,
and more cleanly, than those of the Egyptian Felah.
_March 1st._ I had reached Derr late in the evening, and
alighted at the house of Hassan Kashef, as do all travellers of
respectability, and where the two Mamelouk Begs above mentioned
were also quartered. As the governor had retired to his women’s
apartments, I did not wait upon him, but went to rest, having
refused to answer all the inquisitive questions put to me as well
by his people, as by the servants of the Begs; but the next morning,
Hassan, after having visited the Mamelouks, surprised me in the open
hall where I was lodged, before I had risen, and immediately asked
me what was the object of my arrival, and whether I was a merchant,
or sent to him by the Pasha of Egypt. It had been my intention,
before I knew of the arrival of the Mamelouks, to pass for a person
sent by the Pasha upon a secret mission into Nubia, having learnt
from the people of Upper Egypt, that the governors of that country
dread the power of Mohammed Aly, and would not dare to molest me:
but when I was apprised of the arrival of the two Begs, and being
also led to believe, from the conversation of the peasants at whose
houses I had slept in my way up to Derr, that the Nubian princes
were as much afraid of the Mamelouks, their southern neighbours,
as they are of their northern one, I thought it would be dangerous
to disguise my real intentions; and, encouraged by the success
of Messrs. Legh and Smelt, I candidly told Hassan Kashef, that
I had merely come to make a tour of pleasure through Nubia, like
the two gentlemen who had been at Derr before me; and presented
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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