Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
I returned to Derr with Hassan Kashef, but remained there only a
few hours. I dismissed my honest Kerrarish guide, Mohammed Sad;
at parting, I gave him a woollen Mellaye,[51] which he had long
before expressed a great desire to possess. He was a good man, but
had one defect, and a very great one in a guide: he never could be
prevailed upon to tell me the distances of places; or state the
spot where we should halt for the night. Whenever I questioned
him on these points his constant reply was, Allah ysahhel aleyna
(الّه يسهّل علينا), “May God smooth our path!”
and when I pressed him for a decisive answer, he would exclaim:
“God is great; he can prolong distances, and shorten them.”
Like many Arabs, he thought, that to pronounce, with any degree
of certainty, on the future, is an insult to the Deity, and the
occasion of misfortunes in a journey; few of them, therefore, ever
speak of any thing to be done without adding; “In shallah” (ان
شاآله). If it pleases God: but my old guide would not even go so
far; and always evaded conversing on what was likely to happen. At
parting, when he asked me for my Mellaye, I answered, “May God
smooth your path,” a phrase usually employed towards beggars,
when they are civilly told to be gone; “No,” said he, “for
once, I will beg you to smooth it;” so I gave him the Mellaye,
and a small present in money; and am confident that Abou Sad will
never forget me. On taking leave of Hassan Kashef, I offered him my
pistols, as a present, for I certainly had reason, upon the whole,
to be satisfied with his behaviour towards me; but he was in a very
ill humour, and told me, that they were not pistols fit for a Kashef;
and that he wanted a pair of long pistols, such as the Mamelouks
carry in their holsters. I promised to send him such a pair, and
thus we parted. I have already written to Cairo for the pistols,
and the Kashef will be not a little surprised at receiving them;
for it is very unusual in the East to remember the services of any
one, whose good offices are no longer wanted.
As long as Egypt enjoys a settled government, travellers may
proceed through Nubia with safety, as that government will
always be respected by the Nubian chiefs, at least as far as Wady
Halfa. Whenever the Kashefs have nothing to apprehend from Egypt,
I suspect that no traveller will be able to penetrate farther than
Derr, but that he will there be stripped of his property, and sent
back. In any case, it is necessary to be furnished with presents,
particularly if all the three brothers happen to be at Derr; for
they are extremely jealous of each other, and if a present were
given to one only, the two others would certainly prevent the
traveller from proceeding farther into the country.
Being furnished with a new guide, who was to accompany me to Assouan,
I recrossed the river, and slept this night, at one hour and a half
from Derr, nearly opposite Diwan, in a hut which some labourers
had built at a water wheel.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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