Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
_March 29th._ We ascended the mountain which interrupts the road
along the shore. On its summit I saw fragments of very small Egyptian
columns and capitals, lying near some Arab structures. I observed
no ancient edifice near them. The rock on the southern side of
the mountain is granite and feldspath; on the northern side, it
is sand-stone. At the end of two hours we again reached the banks
of the river, at the village of Tafa, close to the spot where the
rock projects perpendicularly into the water. Here are the ruins of
two small temples: one of them consists of an apartment ten paces
square, the roof and one side of which are in ruins; two columns
are yet standing in it, two feet in diameter, with the palm-leaf
capitals. Adjoining this apartment was [Illustration] the adytum,
the foundations of which only remain. The winged globe is over the
entrance into the adytum; but I saw no other sculptures, nor any
hieroglyphics. The Greeks, as usual, have painted their saints
upon the walls; and a Greek almanac, and several badly written
inscriptions, are also visible upon them. The other temple is a
[Illustration] small square apartment, quite entire, with six pillars
in it, similar, in size and shape, to those just mentioned. The
winged globe over the gates is the only sculpture of any kind
about it. Around these two buildings are numerous remains of the
private dwellings of the ancient inhabitants, consisting of thick
and strongly built walls of stone; this material, from its greater
proximity, having been frequently used in Nubia instead of bricks.
The peasants of Tafa (no doubt the ancient _Taphis_) relate that they
are the descendants of the few Christian inhabitants of the city, who
embraced the Mahommedan faith, when the country was conquered by the
followers of the Prophet; the greater part of their brethren having
either fled, or been put to death on that event taking place. They
are still called Oulad el Nusara (اولاد النصَارَي);
or the Christian progeny. On the east bank are some ancient remains,
on the site of _Contra Taphis_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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