Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
DESCRIPTION OF A JOURNEY
FROM
UPPER EGYPT THROUGH THE DESERTS OF NUBIA
TO
BERBER AND SUAKIN, AND FROM THENCE TO DJIDDA
IN ARABIA.
PERFORMED IN THE YEAR 1814.
* * * * *
After my return from a journey along the banks of the Nile towards
Dóngola, in the spring of the year 1813, I remained in Upper Egypt,
waiting for an opportunity to start with a caravan of slave traders,
towards the interior parts of Nubia in a more easterly direction. A
numerous caravan had set out from the neighbourhood of Assouan,
only a few days before my return there from Mahass; and it was the
last which performed that journey in the year 1813.
About this time, a robber named Naÿm, Shikh of the Arabs Rebatat,
who inhabit the country of Mograt, (نعيم شيخ عرب
الرباطات المقمين في بلاد مقرات) on the
banks of the Nile, three days N. W. from Goz, had begun to infest the
caravan route; several parties of traders had already been plundered
by him, and the above-mentioned caravan shared the same fate on its
return to Egypt in October 1813. Naÿm was killed in December by
a numerous armed caravan from Sennaar; and the roads then became
safe. The traders, however, still delayed their departure. They
were apprized that the southern countries on the borders of the
Nile, were severely suffering from famine; the crops of Dhourra had
failed from a scanty inundation, and such was said to be the effect
of famine, that the poor Negroes had killed each other, for a few
measures of Dhourra. The merchants foresaw that the expense to be
incurred in feeding their slaves would eat up all their profits,
and therefore determined to wait till the next harvest.
During this time I had established my principal quarters at Esne,
which is three days journey from Daraou, the place from whence
the caravan takes its departure. Not wishing to be much known, I
kept as little company as possible, dressed myself in the poorest
dress of an inhabitant of Egypt, and spent as little money as I
possibly could, the daily expense, of myself, servant, dromedary,
and ass, being about one shilling and sixpence; my horse cost
me sixteen-pence per month. Yet, with all this I could not help
creating some suspicion of my being a rich man, or of my having had
the good luck to find a treasure. I was fearful of engaging in any
traffic because it would have obliged me to mix with the merchants,
and my person would then have become generally known. But in Egypt,
there is no such condition as that of a man who lives upon his income
without employment. Every body is either a cultivator or a merchant,
or in some public service; and to be able to live without begging,
and without belonging to any of those classes appears very strange,
and exposes the individual to the suspicion of having chests full
of dollars.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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