Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
I had equipped myself at Esne for my journey: but soon found on
my arrival at Daraou the necessity of making some alteration in my
plans. I had brought with me a camel and an ass; the former I had
intended to load with baggage, provisions, and water: the latter
to mount myself, according to the custom of the Nubian traders;
who generally perform their travels towards the Negro countries on
these animals, which they sell there and return on their camels. I
had no servant. The Fellah who had faithfully served me during my
whole stay in Upper Egypt I had sent, on my departure from Esne,
with a packet of letters to Cairo; for I was determined to try my
luck in this country alone, unaccompanied by any servant. Experience
had taught me that in difficult and dangerous travels, those who
have no other motive in performing them, but that of gaining their
monthly pay, are averse to incur any perils, and stagger at the
smallest difficulties; thus they become more troublesome than
serviceable to their master: whom moreover their imprudence or
treachery may expose to danger. I was in full health, and therefore
not afraid of undertaking the additional fatigue, which otherwise
would have been borne by my servant. Arrived at Daraou, I had an
opportunity of seeing the preparations of my fellow travellers, and
of observing that mine were not regulated by that strict economy
which served as a rule to the others. My baggage and provisions
weighed about two hundred weight. The camel however was capable
of carrying six hundred weight. The water for my use on the road
was to be contained in two small skins slung across the saddle of
the ass. My camel therefore could carry four hundred weight more,
the freight of which at five dollars per hundred weight, was worth
twenty dollars. Had I slighted such a sum, I might have exposed
myself to the animadversions of my companions, who would probably
have thought me possessed of great wealth. I soon had an offer of a
freight of four hundred weight, to convey across the desert as far
as Goz, at the above price: but I considered that the loading and
unloading of the camel would occasion me a great deal of trouble:
I therefore thought it best to sell him, and soon found a purchaser
at twenty-five dollars in ready money, camels being at that time
very scarce in Upper Egypt; it was part of the bargain, that the
purchaser should carry my baggage across the Desert.
I appeared at Daraou in the garb of a poor trader, the only character
in which I believe I could possibly have succeeded. It may not be
superfluous that I should inform the reader in detail of the contents
of my baggage, and of my provisions: at least, it had always been,
with me, a great desideratum in reading books of travels, to collect
such information for my own use.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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