Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
From the first day of our departure from Daraou, my companions had
treated me with neglect, and even contempt; they certainly had no
idea of my being a Frank, but they took me to be of Turkish origin,
either from European Turkey or Asia Minor, an opinion sufficient
of itself to excite the ill treatment of Arabs, who all bear the
most inveterate hatred to the Osmanlis. I had with me a Firman
of Ibrahim Pasha, son of Mohammed Aly Pasha, and governor of
Upper Egypt, together with a letter of recommendation from him,
addressed to all the black kings on the Sennaar route, and wherein
I was called Hadji, or Shikh Ibrahim el Shamy, or the Syrian. For
obvious reasons I had never let this be known amongst my companions,
and all that I gave them to understand was, that I was by birth
an Aleppine; they knew that I was much befriended by Hassan Beg,
the Governor of Esne, under whose jurisdiction Daraou is included,
as well as by the great commercial house El Habater of Esne, who
had recommended me to his correspondent at Daraou. Seeing that I
had brought a very small quantity of goods with me, they thought
I had been forced to leave Egypt on account of debts, but I gave
out that I was in search of a lost cousin, who several years ago
had departed from Siout to Darfour, and Sennaar, upon a mercantile
expedition, in which my whole property had been engaged. This was
a pretext for my undertaking, quite suited to the notions of these
people. The smallness of my adventure in goods would hardly have
justified any man in his senses in attempting such a journey with
mere commercial views, for after paying all the passage duties in
the road, the most sanguine person could not hope for any greater
success, than that of returning with the full capital. I was obliged
therefore to allege some reasons for undertaking the journey. I
often repeated my hopes of finding my lost cousin, and at all events
of conducting my expenses in such a manner as not to be a loser on
my return. My companions were not disinclined to believe my story,
and thought it not at all improbable, that I might also be avoiding
my creditors; but I could easily perceive at the same time that they
could not divest themselves of some commercial jealousy, thinking it
not improbable that I might find the means of attempting a second
expedition into these countries with a large capital, in case I
should return from the present with a conviction of the profitable
nature of the trade. It was probably for this reason that they
thought it necessary to ill treat me, in order to prevent my making
any further attempt. Several Turks from Asia Minor or from European
Turkey had within the last ten years endeavoured to engage in the
trade, but the Daraou people had always found means to disgust
them so much, as to make them abandon any second enterprize. When
in addition to other motives for ill treating me, the traders saw
in me every appearance of a poor man, that I cut wood, and cooked
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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