Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
schools, to which young men repair from Darfour, Sennaar, Kordofan,
and other parts of Soudan, in order to acquire a proficiency in the
law, sufficient to enable them to make a figure as great Fakys in
their own countries. The learned men of Damer have many books, but
they treat exclusively of religious and judicial subjects. Amongst
others, I saw a copy of the Koran worth at least four hundred
piasters, and a complete copy of Bochari’s Commentaries upon the
Koran, worth double that sum, at the Cairo book-market. These books
are brought from Cairo by the young Fakys of Damer themselves,
many of whom go to study there in the mosque El Azher, or in the
great mosque at Mekka, where they remain for three or four years,
living during that time principally upon alms and stipends. In
the schools at Damer they teach the true reading of the Koran, and
deliver lectures on the Tefsyn (explanations of the Koran), and on
the Touhyd, or the nature of God, and his divine attributes. They
have a large well built mosque, but without a minaret; it rests upon
arches built of bricks, and the floor is covered with fine sand. This
is the coolest spot in Damer, and much resorted to by strangers
to pass a few hours in sleep after the mid-day prayers. Around an
open place adjoining the mosque are a number of school-rooms. Many
Fakys have small chapels near their own houses, but the Friday’s
prayers are always performed in the great mosque. The chief Fakys
live with great ostentation of sanctity, and the Faky el Kebír leads
the life of a hermit; he occupies a small building in the midst of
a large square in the town. One part of this building is a chapel,
and the other a room about twelve feet square, in which he constantly
resides day and night, without any attendants, and separated from
his own family. He lives upon what his friends or disciples send him
for breakfast and supper. About three o’clock in the afternoon
he quits his chamber, after having been shut up all the morning,
occupied in reading, and takes his seat upon a large stone bench
before the building. He is here joined by all his fraternity, and
business is then transacted until long after sun-set. I went once
to kiss his hands, and found him a venerable figure, entirely
wrapped up in a white cloke. He asked me from whence I came,
in what school I had learnt to read, and what books I had read;
and he seemed satisfied with my answers. Near him sat a Moggrebyn
Shikh, a native of Mekinéz, who had come from Mekka, to serve as
his scribe, and who transacted all the public business. I was told
that this person had found means to amass a large sum of money.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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