Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
Our companions were all under great apprehensions, in setting out
from Damer, notwithstanding the presence of our guides. We kept close
together, lest any stragglers should be cut off in the woods through
which the road lies. I carried my gun in my hand, which I knew would
frighten a host of robbers, but, according to my constant practice in
travelling, I did not think it necessary to load it. The principal of
the Daraou traders rode up to me, and knowing the gun to be unloaded,
ordered me, in a very peremptory tone, to put in a ball; upon my
refusing a sharp dispute arose; he called me at last a cowardly
rascal (معرّص خّواق), who was unworthy of wearing arms;
“that may be true,” I replied, “but I am at least accustomed
to wear them, while you peasants find a stick or a scithe more
suited to your hands than a sword.” His pride was so much hurt
by this reply, that he struck me a blow with his stick across the
shoulders which almost levelled me to the ground; I warded off a
second blow with my gun, and was going to return it with the butt
end, when our companions leapt in between us, and wrested the gun
from me, which, after a moment’s reflection, I was glad of, for if
I had struck the man, I should have wounded him, and it would then
have become a serious business. I vented my anger in heavy curses
upon my aggressor, who was blamed by every body, and especially by
the Ababdes, who declared that they would resent any further insult
offered to me. The bustle which this affair occasioned, together with
our fears of robbers, which did not permit me to quit the caravan,
prevented me from taking my notes as fully as usual. On leaving
Damer we entered a wood of Sellam trees, and continued our route
at a little distance from the arable ground. Near the river we saw
several small villages and hamlets, among clusters of Doum trees;
they are inhabited by the Arabs Mekaberab (مكابراب),[20] who
were formerly tributary to the chiefs of Shendy, but who have long
since asserted their freedom, and now live partly upon the produce of
their fields, and partly by robbery; they are at war with all their
neighbours, and having acquired a reputation for superior valour,
are much dreaded by them. Travellers unaccompanied by one or more
Fakys from Damer, are sure of being stripped by them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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