Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
I acquainted you in a former letter with my intention to pass the
time of the plague in the desert of Sinai. My return to Cairo was
about the time when the infection usually ceases. From the convent
of Mount Sinai I made an excursion towards the eastern gulf of the
Red Sea, which I followed up nearly in its whole length, till I came
within sight of Akaba (Elana, not Ezion Geber). Circumstances did not
permit me to visit that spot itself, but I could see enough to trace
the direction of the gulf as well as of the chains of mountains by
which this part of Arabia is linked to Syria. The sea of Elana is
much narrower than that of Suez. Close to the shore, on both sides,
are high mountains; its main direction is more easterly than is
generally laid down upon the maps. Bedouin of the Arabian coast
navigate it, in open boats, in which they carry their cattle to
the inhabitants of the peninsula for sale, and they fish for pearls
in several parts of it. Excepting a small island, called El Deyr,
not far west of Akaba, where some ruins are seen, no vestiges of
ancient settlers, which could be attributed to the Israelites, fell
under my observation. At Wady Fizan (one day and a half S. W. of the
convent of Sinai), are some remains of small towns, of the date of
the Lower Empire, erected at the time when the monastic order had
spread over the whole peninsula, which appears to have contained at
that time a great number of convents, forming an establishment much
resembling that existing now at Mount Athos. The most interesting
antiquities are the celebrated inscriptions of Wady Mekatteb,
which have never been fully copied yet; and which are so numerous,
that they would afford several days labour even to an experienced
draughtsman. I have met with similar inscriptions in many other parts
of the mountain, but invariably to the West of Djebel Mousa, which
is a strong argument in favour of the belief, that the authors of
them were pilgrims coming from Egypt; and not Israelite shepherds,
as many have supposed. They evidently appear to be mere names, to
which the sign [Digamma-like symbol] is always prefixed. I saw no
inscriptions of more than a line or two; it appears that each pilgrim
in passing wrote his name, and the inscribed rocks are constantly
found on the side of the different great roads, leading from Suez
to Djebel Sinai, usually near the resting places, which were chosen
where some impending rock afforded shelter from the sun; and where
the same convenience still induces travellers to halt. In the lower
part of the mountains the inscriptions are cut in sand stone, in the
higher upon granite; the characters have no depth, but upon granite
even this would be a labour exceeding the strength and leisure of
ordinary pilgrims. The want of water, especially about Wady Mekatteb,
precludes the idea of an army having passed that way, the soldiers of
which might have wished to perpetuate their names. Perhaps some of
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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