Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
the drawings of animals, particularly those of camels and mountain
goats, (in Arabic “Beden,” which are to this day very common
in the mountain) may have been done by the Israelite shepherds;
I saw similar drawings, without inscriptions, upon rocks not far
from Akaba. Upon the whole these inscriptions appear to me to have
a strong resemblance to some I have seen in Nubia, written in the
ancient Egyptian current character; some letters at least appear
to be common to both. My opinion is that they were the work of
Egyptian Christians, or perhaps Jews, during the first centuries
of our era. Besides those of Wad Mekatteb, the most numerous and
well written, are those at the foot, on the declivity, and at the
summit of Djebel Serbal, a high mountain, apparently the highest of
the whole chain, situated S. W. b. W. from the convent about forty
miles distant, and which, as far as I know, has not been ascended by
any former traveller. Many circumstances indicate that its pointed
summit was once the object of a pilgrimage. Artificial steps lead
up to it, and the inscriptions about the top are innumerable. From
what causes this mountain derived its sanctity, I could not learn,
neither from the Arabs nor the priests of the convent, who were
even ignorant of the ruins of a large convent, situated near the
foot of Djebel Serbal.
A botanist would find a rich harvest in these high regions, in
the most elevated parts of which, a variety of sweet scented herbs
grow. The Bedouins collect to this day the manna, under the very same
circumstances described in the books of Moses. Whenever the rains
have been plentiful during the winter, it drops abundantly from
the tamarisk (in Arabic Tarfa); a tree very common in the Syrian
and Arabian deserts, but producing, as far as I know, no manna
any where else. They gather it before sunrise, because if left in
the sun it melts; its taste is very sweet, much resembling honey;
they use it as we do sugar, principally in their dishes composed of
flour. When purified over the fire, it keeps for many months; the
quantity collected is inconsiderable, because it is exclusively the
produce of the Tarfa, which tree is met with only in a few valleys
at the foot of the highest granite chain. The inhabitants of the
Peninsula, amounting to almost four thousand, complain of the want
of rain and of pasturage; the state of the country must therefore
be much altered from what it was in the time of Moses, when all the
tribes of Beni Israel found food here for their cattle. About the
highest part of the peninsula, springs and wells are in plenty; in
the middle parts and near the shore water is scarce. The present
inhabitants are a motley crowd of Bedouins from all quarters,
Arabians, Syrians, Egyptians, Moggrebyns, united at present in
three tribes, who are called masters of Sina, and who live like
true Bedouins. They are in possession of several fruitful valleys
where date trees grow, and where agriculture is practised by a minor
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