Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
I see that Aly Bey el Abbasi has got the start of me in his
description of Mekka, but I hope to be able to give some information
in addition to his. I have lately had an opportunity of perusing
his work; little as I like the style in which it is written and
the pretensions of its author, yet I find it incumbent upon me to
state, that after a minute examination of it, I find no reason to
doubt the general veracity of Aly Bey; what he says of himself in
Syria, Egypt, and the Hedjaz, I know to be true, although he has
not always thought proper to state the whole truth. I could tell
you many anecdotes to prove how little he imposed, with his almost
utter ignorance of Arabic, upon the sharp-sighted natives of these
countries; but he was perhaps to be excused in fancying that he did,
as those who partook of his bounty would be the last to hint to
him their real thoughts on this subject, and whether Bey or not, he
was a Mussulman, and that was sufficient. His method of travelling
was very injudicious; surrounded with so much pomp, it was almost
impossible for him to make many interesting observations, for a
Turkish grandee is never left alone, and his numerous dependents are
spies upon all his actions. The plan which he gives of the mosque at
Mekka is very correct; that of the town is much less so, as you will
see by comparing it with that which accompanies my description of the
city. All his views of Hedjaz and Syria are drawn from memory; that
of Wady Muna is the only one slightly resembling the reality. He has
made one very curious mistake, which is, that he persuades himself
that he was at Mekka, when the Wahabi took possession of that town,
an event which happened three years before his arrival there. I
am indignant at his daring to question the veracity of Mr. Browne,
(by whose side he is a mere pigmy,) upon so trivial a fact as that
of the existence of carpets in one of the mosques of Cairo, where
I actually saw carpets spread not longer ago than yesterday.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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