Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
You will be pleased to hear that the colossal head from
Thebes has at last, after many difficulties, safely arrived at
Alexandria. Mr. Belzoni, who offered himself to undertake this
commission, has executed it with great spirit, intelligence,
and perseverance. The head is waiting now at Alexandria for a
proper conveyance to Malta. Mr. Salt and myself have borne the
expenses jointly, and the trouble of the undertaking has devolved
upon Mr. Belzoni, whose name I wish to be mentioned, if ever ours
shall on this occasion, because he was actuated by public spirit
fully as much as ourselves. The Committee need not be under any
apprehension, that this transaction has caused my name to become
of public notoriety in Egypt; which would certainly have been the
case, if it had been known that I had a hand in the business, for
during the fortnight the head remained at Boulak, the vessel was
constantly crowded by swarms of visitors, of all classes. Nobody
knows that I have had any thing to do with it. The Kahirines ascribe
it entirely to Mr. Salt and Mr. Belzoni, who, they say, send it to
England to have it taken to pieces, in order to find the invaluable
jewel which it contains. The residence of the French Savans in Egypt
has not taught them to form better notions, and the same kind of
belief which caused the Shikh of Tedmor to resist my carrying off
a small mutilated bust, found near the portico at Palmyra, still
operates in every part of Egypt.
The peasants of Gourne reported to me, that the French had in vain
endeavoured to carry off this head: and that they had even cut a
hole in the lower part of the bust, to blow off part of the stone,
and render it thus more transportable. I am ignorant for what
reason they relinquished that scheme, but it is somewhat curious
to find that in the drawing which they have given of that head,
in their great work, they have represented it as it would probably
have been, after the lower part should have been destroyed.
The discoveries of Mr. Belzoni in Upper Egypt, are too
interesting not to deserve notice here. He has half cleared the
temple of Ebsambal in Nubia, of the sands that obstructed it. The
frontispiece of the temple, which has thus been discovered, is full
of hieroglyphics; of the four colossi which stand before it, the
face of one only (which I have mentioned in my journal), remains
perfect; one of the three others has been reduced by mutilation to
a mere lump of rock.
Behind Gourne[11] he has discovered a new tomb of the kings, about
one mile distant from the most western “insulated tomb,” as
the French laid it down in their map. He says it is beautiful,
and larger than any of the others, with a sarcophagus in it. All
the paintings are done upon a white stucco, adhering loosely to
the wall, and thus easily to be removed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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