Travels in Peru and India: While Superintending the Collection of Chinchona Plants and Seeds in South America, and Their Introduction into India.Markham, Clements R. (Clements Robert), Sir
History
Travels in Peru and India: While Superintending the Collection of Chinchona Plants and Seeds in South America, and Their Introduction into India.
Markham, Clements R. (Clements Robert), Sir
Cinchona; India -- Description and travel; Peru -- Description and travel
On the left a black cliff, perpendicular, and fully 2000 feet high,
formed one side of the descent, and the space on its inner side was
occupied by a small glacier, the only one I have ever seen in the
Andes; whence descends, in a long waterfall, the source of the little
river Huaccuyo, which dashes down the ravine. For the first thousand
feet the vegetation continues to be of a lowly alpine character,
consisting of coarse grass and flowering herbs, chiefly _Compositæ_, of
which there were several _Senecios_, generally with yellow flowers, a
gentian with violet-coloured flowers, a _Bartsia_ with a yellow flower,
a little _Plantago_, and a _Ranunculus_. As we continued the descent,
the scenery increased in magnificence. The polished surfaces of the
perpendicular cliffs glittered here and there with foaming torrents,
some like thin lines of thread, others broader and breaking over
rocks, others seeming to burst out of the fleecy clouds; while jagged
black peaks, glittering with streaks of snow, pierced the mist which
concealed their bases. After descending for some leagues through this
glorious scenery, the path at length crossed a ridge, and brought us to
the crest of the deep and narrow ravine of Cuyo-cuyo.
The path down the side of the gorge is very precipitous, through a
succession of _andeneria_, or terraced gardens, some abandoned, and
others planted with ocas (_Oxalis tuberosa_), barley, and potatoes;
the upper tiers from six to eight feet wide, but gradually becoming
broader. Their walled sides are thickly clothed with Calceolarias,
Celsias, Begonias, a large purple Solanum, and a profusion of ferns.
But it was not until reaching the little village in the bottom of the
hollow that all the glories of the scene burst upon me. The river
of Sandia, which takes its rise at the head of the ravine, flows by
the village of Cuyo-cuyo, bordered by ferns and wild flowers. It is
faced, near the village, with fern-covered masonry, and is crossed by
several stone bridges of a single arch. Almost immediately on either
side, the steep precipitous mountains, lined, at least a hundred deep,
with well-constructed _andeneria_, and faced with stone, rise up
abruptly. In several places a cluster of cottages, built on one of the
terraces, seemed almost to be hanging in the air. Above all the dark
rocks shoot up into snowy peaks, which stood out against the blue sky.
A most lovely scene, but very sad, for the great majority of those
carefully-constructed terraces, eternal monuments of the beneficence
of the Incas, are now abandoned. The alcalde of Cuyo-cuyo received me
most hospitably. In the early morning numbers of lambs and young llamas
were playing about in the abandoned terraced gardens near the village.
Besides Cuyo-cuyo, there are two small hamlets, called Muchucachi and
Sullanqui, and several scattered huts in the ravine, the population of
which is estimated at 2000 souls.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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