Travels in southern Abyssinia, Volume 2 (of 2) : $b through the country of Adal to the kingdom of ShoaJohnston, Charles
History
Travels in southern Abyssinia, Volume 2 (of 2) : $b through the country of Adal to the kingdom of Shoa
Johnston, Charles
Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Shewa Kifle Hager (Ethiopia) -- Description and travel
I was not sorry at seeing again the already familiar land-mark, Koom
Dingi, although it reminded me of the steep descent beyond. On arriving
at the edge of the table land, I followed the advice of Walderheros,
and dismounted; for however sure-footed in such perilous descents mules
may be, they sometimes slip, as was evidenced by the dead body of one
that lay burst among the rocks below, from a slip over one of the
precipices. I sat down a few minutes whilst my servant ran to a house
in sight, and procured for me the loan of a long slender staff, of some
tough wood, like a spearshaft, which the Shoans generally carry with
them when travelling on foot. By the aid of this, I was enabled to get
along pretty well, dropping carefully from one huge stone to another,
and in this manner, by rough unequal steps, succeeded at length in
reaching the stream of the Airahra. I now mounted again, and forded the
stony bed of the stream, surmounting with some difficulty the miry
bank on the farther side, where the deeply-sunken hoofs of my mule were
pulled with successive snatches out of the soughing tenacious mud.
Half an hour’s ride brought me to the foot of the royal hill of
Ankobar. As we ascend, the road passes midway along its steep side,
which above and below the traveller slopes several hundred feet. Here
we encountered a noisy crowd of chatting romping girls, with large jars
slung between their shoulders by a leathern belt, or rope, which passes
across the breast. They were proceeding to a meadow below, to fill
their jars with water at a little clear stream that fell over a little
ledge of stones as it proceeded to join the Airahra. As I passed them,
I overheard some of them whispering to the other, “Missela Zingero,” a
most complimentary speech certainly, meaning nothing less than that I
was “like a baboon.” These girls were slaves of the Negoos, and their
chief employment consisted of this daily duty of carrying water from
the stream to the palace on the summit of the hill. No less than two
hundred are so employed, and these supply all the water required for
the use of the courtiers and guests, besides a body-guard of three
hundred gunmen, all of whom are daily fed at the royal table.
On my arrival at the Residency, I was again entertained by Dr. Roth
and Mr. Bernatz, who, during the four days I spent with them were as
kind and as attentive as possible. At the end of that time I became
much alarmed at feeling the approach of symptoms threatening a return
of the intermittent fever, from which I had suffered so much during the
previous eight months. I was not long in determining what course to
pursue, but resolved upon leaving Ankobar immediately, and exchange its
damp cold atmosphere for the more genial climate of Aliu Amba.
In Ankobar my time was principally occupied in receiving information
respecting the character and customs of the inhabitants of Shoa, but
these I had more opportunity subsequently of observing for myself.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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