Travels in southern Abyssinia, Volume 2 (of 2) : $b through the country of Adal to the kingdom of ShoaJohnston, Charles
History
Travels in southern Abyssinia, Volume 2 (of 2) : $b through the country of Adal to the kingdom of Shoa
Johnston, Charles
Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Shewa Kifle Hager (Ethiopia) -- Description and travel
Towards evening it was usual whilst I lived at Miriam’s, for me,
attended by Walderheros, to walk to the edge of the precipitous face,
looking towards the east, of the rock upon which Aliu Amba is built.
Here, upon a large stone, high above the narrow winding footpath, that
leads from one end of the ridge to the other, I would sit looking
upon the narrow but fertile valley in front, formed by the junction
of the two flanking streams that nearly encircled the hill. Numerous
little tributaries on each side had formed small pyramidal knolls,
carefully cultivated to the very tops. One in particular, higher than
the rest, was crowned with a snug-looking village, the conical roof of
the largest house in which, pointed into an exact cone the figure of
the hill. The name of this village was Sar-amba; the road to Ankobar
skirts along its base, leaving on the right hand the town and hill of
Aliu Amba. To the left of my position, the peak of the stateprison hill
of Gauncho, and the seat of the Wallasmah Mahomed, was just visible
over a continuous range of hills, that diminished in elevation as they
approached nearer to the town of Farree, and which marked very well the
original level of the once sloping talus, or scarp, which connected the
high table land of Abyssinia with the low plains around the Hawash.
Whilst sitting one evening upon my usual stone, the loud whining appeal
of two turbaned dirty figures announced the presence of begging monks,
an order very numerous in Shoa. Their long prayer to the Almighty was
still going on, and I in utter ignorance for what purpose two robust
and healthy men could be addressing me in such a monotonous duet.
Walderheros pretended to know nothing about them, and had it not been
for some women who stood by amusing themselves with the appearance of
the new come Gypt, or Egyptian, the monks would have had as much chance
of obtaining alms from the rocks around me, as of opening my heart or
understanding to their appeal. “Ahmulah, ahmulah!” cried two or three
of the women, and I then found out that I must bestow in charity a salt
piece, the name of which had already become familiar to me.
Walderheros soon came back from the errand I had sent him upon, to
procure the bulky coin, which was, however, refused by the surly
monks, with a look and grimace that said quite enough, as they duly
measured the ahmulah with a span, and found that it was too short
for their taste. Again Walderheros was sent to the skin bag in which
was deposited the remainder of my last change for a dollar. The
cunning fellow, however, instead of procuring another, as he told me
afterwards, brought back the same ahmulah again, and as the monks did
not think it decent to return it a second time, they growled out the
usual blessing of peace and good fortune for me, with an imprecating
curse for the benefit of Walderheros, and then walked away.
FOOTNOTES:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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