Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
Mukhtar has never forgotten his attachment or forgiven his father, or
even seen his wife again, and from having been a gay and frank youth he
has become gloomy and ferocious without being less dissolute than
before. The court he keeps is a sad blackguard affair, a great contrast
to the austere sobriety of his father's.
We called in the evening (January 14) to take leave of Ali Pasha. He was
on that day in the Palace of the Fortress at the extremity of the rock
over the lake. We passed through the long gallery described by Byron,
and into a low anteroom, from which we entered a very handsome
apartment, very warm with a large fire in it, and with crimson sofas
trimmed with gold lace. There was Ali, to-day a truly Oriental figure.
He had a velvet cap, a prodigious fine cloak; he was smoking a long
Persian pipe, and held a book in his hand. Foresti says he did this on
purpose to show us he could read. Hanging beside him was a small gun
magnificently set with diamonds, and a powder-horn; on his right hand
also was a feather fan. To his left was a window looking into the
courtyard, in which they were playing at the djerid, and in which nine
horses stood tethered in their saddles and bridles, as though ready for
instant use. I am told this is a piece of form or etiquette.
At first his reception seemed less cordial than before, whether by
design or no, and he took very little notice of us. He showed us some
leaden pieces of money, and a Spanish coin just found by some country
people, and asked us what they were. Then he said he wished he had a
coat of beaver such as he had seen on the Danube. He asked Parker
whether he had a mother and brothers, and when he heard he was the only
son he said it was a sin that he should leave his mother. Why did not he
stay at home?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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