Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
The wife of the old disdar (commandant of the castle) died a few days
ago. She was one of the first ladies of the place, and a respectable
good woman. Everyone was touched with the disdar's lamentation. 'She was
the ship in which all my hopes were embarked. She was the port in which
I took shelter from all the storms and troubles of the world; in her my
comforts and joys were confided; she was the anchor in which I
trusted.' Each morning he has visited her tomb, and, causing water to be
brought, has poured it around that her remains may be refreshed. Three
days after, as is the custom, the elders of his relations went to him,
desiring that he should marry again. But he refused, looking, as he
said, soon to follow his wife.
_October 30._--I have been having continual relapses of this abominable
fever ever since August. The worst was in the beginning of this month,
and it has taken me till now to get over it. After having leeches on, I
had removed one of the bandages too soon, and lost a greater quantity of
blood than was intended.
It is impossible to describe the feebleness this fever leaves. I
sometimes felt as if I was breathing out my soul, and had ceased to
belong to this world at all. I lost all interest in my pursuits.
I should have been badly off indeed if it had not been for Madame
Masson. She had been a second mother to me, and more attentive in this
and in all my other illnesses than any attendants I could have hired. As
soon as I was a little better she was so good as to accompany me to a
monastery in the Sacred Way, some little distance from Athens, to which
I had been advised to go for change of air. There was only one old woman
there to take care of the keys, and in the big deserted place we were
like two owls in a barn. I cannot say it was gay. I passed most of my
time in sleeping, for that has been the chief effect of my weakness,
and what little was left in reading. Occasionally we were favoured with
a visit by some of our Athenian friends, who brought their provisions
with them, as their custom is. The monastery stands in a beautiful dell
or pass through the mountains. On one side is a beautiful view of the
bay and mountains of Eleusis, and on the other, of the Plain of Athens,
with the long forest of olive trees between us and the Acropolis, which
dominates the plain and is backed by Hymettus. On the right is the
Piræus, at no great distance. I could not enjoy this lovely scene. Alas!
one can enjoy nothing with a low fever. And now, after a stay of a
fortnight, we are just returned, and I am not much the better for it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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