Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
Dutch and Athenian, beguiled the way, and all was harmony except the
music. So one might have hoped the day might have concluded; but no! the
Greek fire, once lighted, is not so easily quenched. I, as an invalid,
and exceedingly tired with so much pleasure, retired to my cell in a
monastery where we were all to pass the night, and some of my friends
kindly gave me a coverlet and a sort of bed, on which I threw myself;
but not until long after midnight did the music or the dancing cease, or
I or any sober person get a chance of sleep. We got away next day, but
not without difficulty; for the Athenians are like our journeymen: when
once they are out on the spree they must carry it on for a week.
We are now in Athens again, and I have just returned to my work-table
covered with the dust of so many lost days. This waste of time is
terrible. Altogether, out of twenty-four months spent in Athens, seven
have been passed in illness. If ever I get away from this country in
health and safety, how I shall thank my stars!"
It was in these last days of his stay in Athens that he became possessed
of a portion of the Panathenaic frieze of the Parthenon in the following
strange manner. The disdar or commandant of the castle on the Acropolis
was by now an old friend of Cockerell's, and had ended by becoming
exceedingly attached to him. When he understood from the latter, who
came to pay him a farewell visit, that he was leaving for good, he told
him that he would make him a present. He said he knew that Cockerell was
very fond of old sculptured stones, so if he liked to bring a cart to
the base of the Acropolis at a certain hour at night (it could not be
done in the daytime for fear of giving offence to the Greeks) he would
give him something. Cockerell kept the appointment with the cart. As
they drew near there was a shout from above to look out, and without
further warning the block which forms the right-hand portion of Slab I.
of the South Frieze now in the British Museum was bowled down the
cliff. Such a treatment of it had not been anticipated, but it was too
late for regrets. The block was put on to the cart, taken down to the
Piræus, and shipped at once. Cockerell presented it to the British
Museum, and its mutilated appearance bears eloquent testimony to its
rough passage down the precipices of the Acropolis.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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