Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
He arrived at Bois le Duc early in March 1816, and after an illness
there of seven weeks, writes to Cockerell to beg his assistance to get
him over to England, that he might be the better able to sponge upon him
there. I never heard what became of him afterwards.
Cockerell then was in Rome, and here he first began to enjoy the harvest
of his labours. He says there were no English there at the time except
Lady Westmoreland, mother of the British minister at Florence, but there
was a large society of foreign artists, into which he threw himself.
There were the brothers Riepenhausen, painters; Schadow, a sculptor
from Berlin; Ingres, who drew his portrait;[49] Cornelius of Munich, and
others of his school; Knoering, a Russian; Mazois, author of "Le Palais
de Scaurus" and an itinerary of Pompeii; Catel, a French architect;
Thorwaldsen, Overbeck, Vogel, portrait painter; Bartholdy, Prussian
consul-general; Hess, a painter from Vienna; Canova, and Checcarini, who
did the Neptune and Tritons in the Piazza del Popolo at the bottom of
the drive up to the Pincio. The air of Rome was steeped in classicism.
In this company every event was described in classical figures: their
café was the Café Greco, which still exists; the front half was called
the Pronaos. There all the artistic world collected and made
acquaintance.
"If I were a little more vain I should be out of my wits at the
attention paid me here. I have a daily levee of savants, artists and
amateurs come to see my drawings; envoys and ambassadors beg to know
when it will be convenient for me to show them some sketches; Prince
Poniatowski and the Prince of Saxe-Gotha beg to be permitted to see
them. I say they are slight, and in truth poor things, but at any rate
they were done on the spot, and they, 'C'est la Grèce enfin, c'est là le
véritable pays. Ah, Monsieur, que vous êtes heureux d'avoir parcouru ce
beau pays!' Then I explain to them some constructions or beauties which
they don't understand. 'Ah, que c'est merveilleux, mais vous les
publierez, vous nous donnerez le bonheur de les posséder, mais ce sont
des choses fort intéressantes, enfin c'est de la Grèce.' And in truth
publishers and readers have been so long restricted to the Roman
antiquities, which have been published and read over and over again a
thousand times, that the avidity for novelty is beyond measure, and
Greece is the fashion here as everywhere else.
There is not a single English artist here and only a few passengers.
Lady Westmoreland is one. She is a very clever, well-bred, agreeable
chatterer, who has been very civil to me, and made me lose several hours
which might have been better employed. Fortunately she is going away. I
have several letters for the Roman nobles, but I have not presented them
that I may have my time to myself.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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