Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
I went downhill again to the ruins. They consisted mostly of Venetian or
Genoese work, but there was the door of a portico erected to Germanicus,
a small theatre on the south side of the river, and some very rough
tombs of Roman times, among which I drew until nightfall.
Next morning we had an enchanting sail to Phaselis. The breeze was
slight and the dolphins played all round us, as though they enjoyed the
fair weather. Phaselis was once a favourite stronghold of pirates, and
is just made for it. It stands on a peninsula easily defended, and has
or had--for all are now destroyed--three excellent harbours. The town
was defended by a strong wall, and was provided with numbers of
cisterns, besides an aqueduct for bringing water from the mainland.
Where the sea had undermined the cliffs, parts of the wall and sides of
cisterns had fallen away into it. There were some tombs only just
recently mutilated, which I thought worth making drawings of. In the
evening we put out our net and caught some fish, but lost part of the
net, owing to an octopus which clung to it and dragged it into its hole.
_April 28th._--We weighed anchor early, but there was no wind as yet,
and we had rowed for some hours when we became aware of a large sail
coming up on a breeze. As I scanned her I had little doubt she would be
the _Salsette_ or the _Frederiksteen_; but my poor captain was very much
frightened, and when he saw her send a boat to board a small vessel
before us, he desired his sons to hide his money in the ballast. It was
not long, however, before I made out with my glass the red cross, and
then I was able to set his mind at rest. When our little caique came
alongside, we must have been a shabby sight; but Captain Beaufort bade
me heartily welcome and gave me so cordial a shake of the hand as I can
never forget. He said he had hunted for me all along the coast, and
pressed me to take a cruise with him, rather than go on travelling in
this hazardous fashion in the caique. The offer was tantalising; but, as
I was not sure if I should feel at my ease, I only promised to stay a
few days to begin with."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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