Travels in Syria and the Holy LandBurckhardt, John Lewis
History
Travels in Syria and the Holy Land
Burckhardt, John Lewis
Palestine -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
[p.208] March 22nd.--Caravans reckon two days journey between Djob
Djennein and Damascus; but as I was tolerably well mounted, and my guide
was on a good mare of the Emir Beshir's, I resolved on reaching it in
one day; we therefore pursued our route at a brisk walk and sometimes at
a trot. We crossed the plain obliquely, having the projection of the
Anti-Libanus, which ends at Djob Djennein, on our right. At thirty-five
minutes from Djob Djennein, to the right, is the village Kamel el Louz
[Arabic], where are many ancient caves in the rocky mountain which rises
behind it. In three quarters of an hour we reached the foot of the Anti-
Libanus. On the summit of the mountain on our left, I observed a
singular rock called Shekeik el Donia [Arabic], or Hadjar el Konttara
[Arabic]; my guide told me that the time would certainly arrive when
some Frank nation would invade this country, and that on reaching this
rock they would be completely routed. After a short ascent the road lies
through a narrow plain, and then up another Wady, in the midst of which
is the village of Ayty [Arabic], two hours distant from Djob Djennein;
it belongs to Sheikh Hassan, the brother of Sheikh Beshir, a very rich
Druse, who is as avaricious as the latter is generous; he has however
built a Khan here for the accommodation of travellers. There is a fine
spring in the village; the inhabitants manufacture coarse earthen ware
[Arabic], with which they supply Damascus.
At the end of two hours and three quarters we reached the summit of the
Anti-Libanus, where the heavy rains had already melted the greater part
of the snow; here are some stunted oaks, and numerous springs. In three
hours and a quarter we descended into a fine plain watered by the Wady
Halloue [Arabic], which we followed into a narrow valley, and on issuing
from it passed a ruined Khan, with a spring, called Khan Doumas
[Arabic], which is five hours and a quarter from Djob Djennein. We left
the
PLAIN OF DAMASCUS.
[p.209] village Doumas, which is half an hour from the Khan on our
right, and at the end of six hours reached a high uneven plain, situated
between the Anti Libanus and the chain of hills which commence near
Katana; the plain is called Szakhret el Sham [Arabic]. Seven hours and a
half, the ruined Khan Meylesoun [Arabic]. Eight hours and a half brought
us to the termination of the Szakhret, from which we descended into the
Ghouta, or plain of Damascus. At nine hours, the village Mezze [Arabic],
among the gardens of Damascus; and at the end of nine hours and three
quarters we entered the city, which is generally reckoned fourteen hours
journey from Djob Djennein.
Note.
Between Kesrouan and Zahle, I am informed that in the mountain, about
six hours from the latter, are the ruins of an ancient city called
Fakkra or Mezza. Large blocks of stone, some remains of temples, and
several Greek inscriptions are seen there.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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