Travels in Syria and the Holy LandBurckhardt, John Lewis
History
Travels in Syria and the Holy Land
Burckhardt, John Lewis
Palestine -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
Tabaria, the ancient Tiberias,[Tel el Faras, the southern extremity of
Djebel Heish, bears from a point above Tabaria N.E. by E.] stands close
to the lake, upon a small plain, surrounded by mountains. Its situation
is extremely hot and unhealthy, as the mountain impedes the free course
of the westerly winds which prevail throughout Syria during the summer.
Hence intermittent fevers, especially those of the quartan form, are
very common in the town in that season. Little rain falls in winter,
snow is almost unknown on the borders of the lake, and the temperature,
on the whole, appears to be very nearly the same as that of the Dead
sea. The town is surrounded towards the land by a thick and well built
wall, about twenty feet in height, with a high parapet and loop-holes.
It surrounds the city on three sides, and touches the water at its two
[p.321] extremities; but there are some remains on the shore of the
lake, which seem to indicate that the town was once inclosed on this
side also. I observed, likewise, some broken columns of granite in the
water close to the shore. The town wall is flanked by twenty round
towers standing at unequal distances. Both towers and walls are built
with black stones of moderate size, and seem to be the work of not very
remote times; the whole being in a good state of repair, the place may
be considered as almost impregnable to Syrian soldiers.
[Map not included] a, The town gate; b, the Serai or palace of the
Mutsellim, a spacious building, which has lately been repaired; c, the
mosque, a fine building, but in bad condition; d, the Catholic church;
e, the gate of the Jews quarter; f, a mosque; g, a range of large
vaults; h, a small town-gate now walled up; i, a newly built Bazar. The
mosque (f) is a handsome arched building, and was anciently a church.
The range of vaults at g, which are close to the sea shore, communicate
with each other by cross alleys and have very low roofs, which terminate
at top in a point: they are well built with stones joined with a very
thick cement, and appear to have been destined for warehouses; in summer
they are almost the only cool places in the town. I could not find any
inscriptions, that might assist in determining their date.
Tabaria, with its district of ten or twelve villages, forms a part of
the Pashalik of Akka. Being considered one of the principal points of
defence of the Pashalik, a garrison of two or three hundred
[p.322] men is constantly kept here, the greater part of whom are
married, and settled. During the reign of Djezzar a colony of two
hundred Afghan soldiers were persuaded by the Pasha to establish
themselves at Tabaria; many of them were natives of Kashmir: and among
others their Aga, who was sent for expressly by Djezzar. After the
Pashas death they dispersed over Syria, but I found two Kashmirines
still remaining, who gave me the history of their colony in broken
Arabic.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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