Travels in Syria and the Holy LandBurckhardt, John Lewis
History
Travels in Syria and the Holy Land
Burckhardt, John Lewis
Palestine -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
[p.357] favourite place of resort of the Bedouins: the valley was
covered with a fine coat of verdant pasture. From hence the road
ascended through oak woods and pleasant hills, over flinty ground, till
we reached, after a march of two hours and a half, an elevated plain,
from whence we had an extensive view towards the east. The plain, which
in this part is called El Ahma (Arabic), is a fertile tract,
interspersed with low hills; these are for the greater part crowned with
ruins, but they are of irregular forms, unlike the Tels or artificial
heights of the Haouran, and of northern Syria. Just by the road, at the
end of three hours, are the ruins called El Kholda (Arabic). To the left
are the ruins of Kherbet Karakagheish (Arabic); and to the right, at
half an hours distance, the ruins of Sar (Arabic), and Fokhara
(Arabic). At about one hour south of Sar begins the district called
Kattar (Arabic) or Marka (Arabic). The ruins which we passed here, as
well as all those before mentioned in the mountains of Belka, present no
objects of any interest. They consist of a few walls of dwelling houses,
heaps of stones, the foundations of some public edifices, and a few
cisterns now filled up; there is nothing entire, but it appears that the
mode of building was very solid, all the remains being formed of large
stones. It is evident also, that the whole of the country must have been
extremely well cultivated, in order to have afforded subsistence to the
inhabitants of so many towns. At the end of three hours and a half we
entered a broad valley, which brought us in half an hour to the ruins of
Amman, which lies about nineteen English miles to the S.E. by E. of
Szalt. The annexed plan [not included] will give an idea of the
situation and ruins of Amman, one of the most ancient of the cities
recorded in Jewish history. The town lies along the banks of a river
called Moiet Amman, which has its source in a pond (a), at a few hundred
paces from the south-western end of the town; I was informed that this
river is
[p.358] lost in the earth one hour below the pond, that it issues again,
and takes the name of Ain Ghazale (Arabic); then disappears a second
time and rises again near a ruined place called Reszeyfa (Arabic);
beyond which it is said to be lost for a third time, till it reappears
about an hour to the west of Kalaat Zerka, otherwise called Kaszr
Shebeib (Arabic), near the river Zerka, into which it empties itself.
Ain Ghazale is about one hour and a half distant from Amman, Kalaat
Zerka is four hours distant. The river of Amman runs in a valley
bordered on both sides by barren hills of flint, which advance on the
south side close to the edge of the stream.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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