Travels in Tartary, Thibet, and China During the years 1844-5-6. Volume 2Huc, Evariste Régis
General
Travels in Tartary, Thibet, and China During the years 1844-5-6. Volume 2
Huc, Evariste Régis
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; China -- Description and travel; Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
The passage of the Bourhan-Bota was but a sort of apprenticeship. A few
days after, Mount Chuga put our strength and courage to a still more
formidable test. The day’s march being long and laborious, the cannon
shot, our signal for departure, was heard at one o’clock in the morning.
We made our tea with melted snow, ate a good meal of tsamba, seasoned
with a clove of garlic, cut up into small bits, and started. When the
huge caravan first set itself in motion, the sky was clear, and a
brilliant moon lit up the great carpet of snow with which the whole
country was covered. Mount Chuga being not very steep in the direction
where we approached it, we were able to attain the summit by sunrise.
Almost immediately afterwards, however, the sky became thickly overcast
with clouds, and the wind began to blow with a violence which grew
constantly more and more intense. The opposite sides of the mountain we
found so encumbered with snow, that the animals were up to their girths
in it; they could only advance by a series of convulsive efforts, which
threw several of them into gulfs from which it was impossible to
extricate them, and where they accordingly perished. We marched in the
very teeth of a wind so strong and so icy, that it absolutely at times
choked our respiration, and despite our thick furs, made us tremble lest
we should be killed with the cold. In order to avoid the whirlwinds of
snow which the wind perpetually dashed in our faces, we adopted the
example of some of our fellow travellers, who bestrode their horses’
backs with their faces to the tail, leaving the animals to follow the
guidance of their instinct. When we reached the foot of the mountain,
and could use our eyes, we found that more than one face had been frozen
in the descent. Poor M. Gabet, among the rest, had to deplore the
temporary decease of his nose and ears. Everybody’s skin was more or
less chapped and cut.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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