Travels in Tartary, Thibet, and China During the years 1844-5-6. Volume 2Huc, Evariste Régis
General
Travels in Tartary, Thibet, and China During the years 1844-5-6. Volume 2
Huc, Evariste Régis
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; China -- Description and travel; Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
Chobando is a small town, the houses and lamaseries of which, painted
with a solution of red ochre, present, in the distance, a singular and
not disagreeable appearance. The town is built on the slope of a
mountain, and is enclosed, in front, by a narrow but deep river, which
you cross on a wooden bridge, that shakes and groans under the feet of
travellers, and seems every moment about to break down. Chobando is the
most important military station you find after quitting Lha-Ri; its
garrison consists of twenty-five soldiers and of an officer bearing the
title of Tsien-Tsoung. This military Mandarin vas an intimate friend of
Ly, the pacificator of kingdoms; they had served together for several
years on the frontiers of Gorkha. We were invited to sup with the
Tsien-Tsoung, who managed to give us, amidst these wild and mountainous
regions, a splendid repast, where were displayed Chinese delicacies of
every description. During supper the two brothers-in-arms enjoyed the
satisfaction of recounting to each other their former adventures.
Just as we were going to bed, two horsemen, having belts adorned with
bells, came into the courtyard of the inn; they stopped for a few
minutes, and then set off again at full gallop. We were informed that it
was the courier-extraordinary, bearing dispatches from the ambassador
Ki-Chan to Peking. He had quitted Lha-Ssa only six days before, so that
he had already travelled more than 2,000 lis (200 leagues). Ordinarily,
the dispatches only occupy thirty days between Lha-Ssa and Peking. This
speed will, doubtless, seem in no way prodigious when compared with that
of the couriers of Europe; but, making allowance for the excessive
difficulties of the journey, it will perhaps be considered surprising.
The express couriers, who carry the mails in Thibet, travel day and
night; they always go in twos, a Chinese soldier and a Thibetian guide.
At about every hundred lis, they find on the road a change of horses, but
the men are not relieved so often. These couriers travel fastened to
their saddles by straps; they are in the habit of observing a day of
rigorous fast before mounting their horses, and all the time they are on
duty, they content themselves with swallowing two raw eggs at every
stage. The men who perform this arduous labour rarely attain an advanced
age; many of them fall into the abysses or remain buried in the snow.
Those who escape the perils of the road fall victims to the diseases
which they readily contract in these dreadful regions. We have never
been able to conceive how these couriers travelled by night among these
mountains of Thibet, where almost at every step you find frightful
precipices.
You see at Chobando two Buddhic monasteries, where numerous Lamas reside,
belonging to the sect of the Yellow Cap. In one of these monasteries
there is a great printing press, which furnishes sacred books to the
Lamaseries of the province of Kham.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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