Travels in Tartary, Thibet, and China During the years 1844-5-6. Volume 2Huc, Evariste Régis
General
Travels in Tartary, Thibet, and China During the years 1844-5-6. Volume 2
Huc, Evariste Régis
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; China -- Description and travel; Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
To the illness of Ly-Kouo-Ngan was added another source of delay. A
Chinese caravan which had left Lha-Ssa a few days after us, had arrived
at Tsiamdo on the same evening with ourselves. This caravan consisted of
a Liang-Tai, or commissary, of his son, a young man of eighteen, and of a
numerous suite of soldiers and servants. We wanted to let these pass on
before, for, if we travelled in company, it was to be feared that we
should not find lodgings and oulah sufficient for so great a number. The
Liang-Tai and his son travelled in palanquins; but, notwithstanding the
conveniences of this mode of conveyance, the two illustrious travellers
were so extenuated with fatigue, and so languid, that it was the general
impression their strength would not suffice to carry them into China.
The literary Mandarins being used to an easy life, are little adapted for
supporting the innumerable miseries of the journey into Thibet. Among
those who are sent to fulfil the duties of commissary, few are fortunate
enough to return to their country.
[Picture: Thibetian Travellers]
The day of our departure, the old Houtouktou of Tsiamdo sent us an escort
of four Thibetian horsemen, to guard us until we reached the territory of
the Tchaktchouba of Djaya. On quitting the town, we passed over a
magnificent bridge entirely built of large trunks of fir, and we then
found ourselves on the Sse-Tchouen road, which meanders along the sides
of a high mountain, at the base of which runs the rapid river Dza-Tchou.
After proceeding twenty lis, we met, at a turn of the mountain, in a deep
and retired gorge, a little party of travellers, who presented a picture
full of poetry: The procession was opened by a Thibetian woman astride a
fine donkey, and carrying an infant, solidly fastened to her shoulders by
large leathern straps. She led after her, by a long cord, a pack-horse,
laden with two panniers, which hung symmetrically on its sides. These
two panniers served as lodgings for two children, whose laughing joyous
faces we saw peeping out from little windows in their respective baskets.
The difference in the age of these children seemed slight; but they could
not be of the same weight, for to keep the equilibrium between them, a
large stone was tied to the side of one of the panniers. Behind the
horse laden with these child-boxes followed a horseman, whom one easily
recognised, by his costume, as a retired Chinese soldier. He had behind
him, on the crupper, a boy of twelve years old. Last of all, an enormous
red-haired dog, with squinting eyes, and an expression altogether of
decided bad temper, completed this singular caravan, which joined us, and
took advantage of our company as far as the province of Sse-Tchouen.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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