Travels in Tartary, Thibet, and China During the years 1844-5-6. Volume 2Huc, Evariste Régis
General
Travels in Tartary, Thibet, and China During the years 1844-5-6. Volume 2
Huc, Evariste Régis
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; China -- Description and travel; Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
Our residence in the valley of Tchogortan had been in a high degree
advantageous to our animals, which had become fatter than we had ever
before known them; the camels, in particular, were magnificently stout;
their humps, made firm with solid flesh, rose proudly on their backs, and
seemed to defy the fatigues and privations of the desert. Still, even in
their improved condition, three camels were not enough to carry our
provisions and our baggage. We accordingly added to our caravan a
supplementary camel and horse, which lightened our exchequer to the
extent of twenty-five ounces of silver; moreover, we hired a young Lama
of the Ratchico mountains, with whom we had become acquainted at
Kounboum, and who was admitted into our party in the capacity of
pro-cameleer. This appointment, while it raised the social condition of
Samdadchiemba, diminished also the fatigues of his functions. According
to this new arrangement, the little caravan was disposed in the following
order: the pro-cameleer, Charadchambeul, went on foot, and led after him
the four camels, who marched in Indian file, the one fastened to the tail
of the other; Samdadchiemba, cameleer-in-chief, rode his little black
mule beside the camels, and the two missionaries closed the procession,
each mounted on a white horse. After having exchanged infinite khatas
with our acquaintance and friends at Kounboum and Tchogortan, we
proceeded on our route, directing our march towards the Blue Sea, where
we were to await the Thibetian embassy.
From Tchogortan to the Koukou-Noor was four days’ march. We passed on
our way a small Lamasery, called Tansan, containing at most two hundred
Lamas; its site is perfectly enchanting; rocky mountains, covered with
shrubs and tall firs, form for it a circular enclosure, in the centre of
which rise the habitations of the Lamas. A stream, bordered with willows
and fine longwort, after tranquilly encircling the Lamasery, dashes over
a rocky fall, and continues its course in the desert. The Buddhist
monastery of Tansan is, they say, very rich, being largely endowed by the
Mongol princes of Koukou-Noor with annual contributions.
On leaving the Lamasery of Tansan, we entered an extensive plain, where
numerous Mongol tents and flocks of every kind picturesquely variegated
the verdure of the pastures. We met two Lamas on horseback, who were
seeking contributions of butter from the wealthy shepherds of the
locality. Their course is this: they present themselves at the entrance
of each tent, and thrice sound a marine conch. Thereupon, some member of
the family brings out a small roll of butter, which, without saying a
word, he deposits in a bag, suspended from the saddle of each Lama’s
horse. The Lamas never once alight, but content themselves with riding
up to each tent, and announcing their presence to the inmates by the
sound of the shell.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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