Travels in Tartary, Thibet, and China During the years 1844-5-6. Volume 2Huc, Evariste Régis
General
Travels in Tartary, Thibet, and China During the years 1844-5-6. Volume 2
Huc, Evariste Régis
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; China -- Description and travel; Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
The general march and particular movements of the caravan were executed
with tolerable order and precision, especially at the outset. Generally,
we started every morning two or three hours before sunrise, in order that
we might encamp about noon, and give the animals full time to feed during
the remainder of the day; the reveillé was announced by a cannon shot;
forthwith, everybody rose, the fires were lighted, and while some of each
particular party loaded the beasts of burden, the others boiled the
kettle and prepared breakfast; a few cups of tea were drunk, a few
handfuls of tsamba eaten, and then the tent was taken down, and packed.
A second cannon-shot gave the signal for departure. A few of the more
experienced horsemen took the lead as guides; these were followed by long
files of camels, and then came the long-haired cattle, in herds of two or
three hundred beasts each, under the care of several lakto. The horsemen
had no fixed place in the procession; they dashed here and there, up and
down, just as their caprice suggested. The plaintive cries of the
camels, the roaring of the bulls, the lowing of the cows, the neighing of
the horses, the talking, bawling, laughing, singing of the travellers,
the whistling of the lakto to the beasts of burden, and, above all, the
innumerable bells tinkling from the necks of the yaks and the camels,
produced together an immense, undefinable concert, which, far from
wearying, seemed, on the contrary, to inspire everybody with fresh
courage and energy.
The caravan went on thus across the desert, stopping each day in plains,
in valleys, and on the mountain sides, improvising, with its tents, so
numerous and so varied in form and colour, a large town, which vanished
each morning, to reappear further on each evening. What an astonishing
thing it must have been for these vast and silent deserts, to find
themselves, all of a sudden, traversed by so numerous and so noisy a
multitude! When we viewed those infinite travelling tents, those large
herds, and those men, in turns shepherds and warriors, we could not help
frequently reflecting upon the march of the Israelites, when they went in
search of the Promised Land, through the solitudes of Median.
On quitting the shore of the Blue Sea, we directed our steps towards the
west, with a slight inclination, perhaps, southward. The first days of
our march were perfect poetry; everything was just as we could have
wished; the weather was magnificent, the road excellent, the water pure,
the pastures rich and ample. As to brigands, we lost all thought of
them. In the night, it was, indeed, rather cold; but this inconvenience
was easily obviated by the aid of our sheep-skin coats. We asked one
another what people could mean by representing this Thibet journey as
something so formidable; it seemed to us impossible for any one to travel
more comfortably, or more agreeably. Alas! this enchantment was not of
long duration.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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