Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 1 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860Mouhot, Henri
History
Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 1 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860
Mouhot, Henri
Cambodia -- Description and travel; Khmer language; Natural history -- Indochina; Thailand -- Description and travel
A temple, about 100 metres in height, built of limestone has been
erected on the top of Mount Bakhêng, which is situated two miles and a
half north of Ongcor-Wat, on the road leading to the town. At the foot
of the mountain are to be seen, among the trees, two magnificent lions,
20 centimetres in height, and each formed, with the pedestals, out of a
single block. Steps, partly destroyed, lead to the top of the mountain,
whence is to be enjoyed a view so beautiful and extensive, that it is
not surprising that these people, who have shown so much taste in
their buildings, should have chosen it for a site.
On the one side you gaze upon the wooded plain and the pyramidal temple
of Ongcor, with its rich colonnades, the mountain of Crome, which is
beyond the new city, the view losing itself in the waters of the great
lake on the horizon. On the opposite side stretches the long chain of
mountains whose quarries, they say, furnished the beautiful stone used
for the temples; and amidst thick forests, which extend along the base,
is a pretty, small lake, which looks like a blue ribbon on a carpet of
verdure. All this region is now as lonely and deserted as formerly it
must have been full of life and cheerfulness; and the howling of wild
animals, and the cries of a few birds, alone disturb the solitude.
Sad fragility of human things! How many centuries and thousands of
generations have passed away, of which history, probably, will never
tell us anything: what riches and treasures of art will remain for
ever buried beneath these ruins; how many distinguished men--artists,
sovereigns, and warriors--whose names were worthy of immortality, are
now forgotten, laid to rest under the thick dust which covers these
tombs!
The whole summit of the mountain is covered with a coating of lime,
forming a vast smooth surface. At regular intervals are four rows of
deep holes, in some of which still stand the columns that formerly
supported two roofs, and formed a gallery leading from the staircase
to the principal part of the building, and the transverse branches of
which were connected with four towers, built partly of stone, partly
of brick. Judging from the details of the work, and the state of the
stone, which in many places crumbles at a touch, this building belongs
to a period much anterior to that of many of the other monuments. Art,
like science, was then in its infancy; difficulties were surmounted,
but not without great efforts of labour and intelligence; taste was
of a grand description, but genius was not in proportion; in a word,
the temple of Mount Bakhêng appears to have been the prelude to
civilization, while that of Ongcor-Wat was probably its climax.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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