Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 1 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860Mouhot, Henri
History
Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 1 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860
Mouhot, Henri
Cambodia -- Description and travel; Khmer language; Natural history -- Indochina; Thailand -- Description and travel
We passed the great island of Ko-Sutin, which is distant about 40 miles
from Penom-Peuh, after five days’ difficult and laborious travelling.
The current was so strong that at every turn in the stream we were
obliged, in addition to redoubling our efforts at the oars, to hold on
by the reeds to prevent our being carried away.
The farther north we went the more rapidly the stream ran; so that when
the waters are high two miles a day are the usual rate of progress;
and it is a common occurrence for the boatmen to seek fuel for their
evening fire in the same spot where they had cooked their rice in the
morning.
About 25 or 30 leagues north of Ko-Sutin, on the confines of Laos,
commence the rapids and cataracts: it is then necessary to leave the
boats and take to pirogues, which, as well as the luggage, have often
to be carried on men’s backs. I made a halt of only a few hours, in
order to see another voluntary exile, M. Cordier, a priest of great
worth, from the Cambodian mission, who resides here.
M. CORDIER THE MISSIONARY.
I felt great compassion for this good man, on entering the chapel which
he had built, and seeing the poverty and nakedness around. He came to
meet me, and invited me to share his repast. For the last three years
the poor missionary has been suffering from a dysentery, which has
become chronic. However, he complains neither of his bad health nor
of his poverty: the only thing that grieved him was the small number
of converts he was called on to baptize, so deeply are the Cambodians
attached to their idols.
ANTICIPATED PERILS.
“But you,” said he to me; “do you know whither you are going? I am
astonished that they allowed you to leave Pinhalú. Ask the Cambodians
what they think of the forests of the Stiêns, and propose to some of
them to accompany you: you would not find one. The rains have begun,
and you are going to almost certain death, or will at least catch a
fever, which will be followed by years of languor and suffering. I have
had the jungle fever, and it is something terrible: even to the tips of
my nails I felt a heat which I can only call infernal: sometimes an icy
coldness would take its place: generally people sink under it: witness
M. Lafitte, a young missionary, who a short time ago took the same
journey; M. Comte, who died of exhaustion; and many others.”
This account was not reassuring, nevertheless I had determined on my
route: I knew that I should find there land and fresh-water shells
which I could find nowhere else,[18] and that this tribe of almost
unknown savages would afford me a curious and interesting study; and
these considerations were sufficient to determine me to proceed. I
trusted in God, and went on my way, M. Cordier’s last words being, “May
God be with the poor traveller!”
[18] Thence come the beautiful Bulimus Cambogiensis, Ptelin
Cambogiensis, and Ptelin Mouhoti.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Sabatier, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot.
CAMBODIAN HUT AT PEMPTIELAN, ON THE MEKON.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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