Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860Mouhot, Henri
History
Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860
Mouhot, Henri
Cambodia -- Description and travel; Khmer language; Natural history -- Indochina; Thailand -- Description and travel
On these uplands, which are more than 4000 feet high, the air is pure
and pleasant, the nights are fresh, and the early morning almost cold.
During these ten days I have collected but little, and my expenses have
been greater than I calculated on. Within the last two years everything
has doubled in price; but the governor appears honest; he paid me a
visit, which cost me a pair of spectacles, some engravings, and other
little things, but he has promised me conveyances, and a letter to the
chief of another province, who will provide me with elephants.
My health is excellent, and I hope it will remain so; my servants are
better. I am surrounded by a crowd of curious gazers, who fill up my
hut.
TO M. CHARLES MOUHOT.
Saraburi (Siam), 24th February, 1861.
You will be astonished, my dear friend, to see my letter dated from
Saraburi, instead of from Laos. When I reached Chaiapume, I went to the
governor with my letters, and asked him to lend me elephants to enable
me to continue my journey, that being the only method of travelling
among these mountains; but he refused me decidedly, and consequently I
have been forced to retrace my steps. Here one can do nothing without
the help of the people in power.
I therefore returned to Korat, and established Phrai in a hut which
I hired of a Chinese; and went myself to Bangkok, to procure from the
authorities orders to the different governors of provinces to aid me
instead of throwing obstacles in my way.
From Korat I had the pleasure of travelling with an amiable mandarin of
Bangkok, who had been to fetch a white elephant from Laos, and who had
conceived a great friendship for me. He travelled in great style; the
caravan was magnificent; we had more than sixty elephants, two of which
were placed at my disposal, one for my own use, and one for my servants.
Finding myself in the good graces of this mandarin, I told him why I
was going to Bangkok, and he promised to obtain for me all I wanted.
When I reached Saraburi I found all the governors of Laos and the
first mandarins of Bangkok assembled there to take care of the white
elephant. The Siamese, being very superstitious, and believing in
metempsychosis, think that the soul of some prince or king has passed
into the white elephant; they have the same belief as to white apes and
albinoes, consequently they hold them all in great respect. They do not
worship them, for the Siamese recognise no God, not even Buddha, but
they believe that a white elephant brings luck to the country.
During the whole journey the men were busy cutting down branches to
make his passage easy; two mandarins fed him with different kinds of
cakes in golden dishes, and the King came out to meet him.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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