Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860Mouhot, Henri
History
Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860
Mouhot, Henri
Cambodia -- Description and travel; Khmer language; Natural history -- Indochina; Thailand -- Description and travel
In a letter which I wrote from Cambodia I described the Mekon river as
imposing, but monotonous and unpicturesque; but in this part of the
country it presents a very different appearance. Where it is narrowest
the width is above 1000 metres, and it everywhere runs between lofty
mountains, down whose sides flow torrents, all bringing their tribute.
There is almost an excess of grandeur. The eye rests constantly on
these mountain slopes, clothed in the richest and thickest verdure.
LOUANG PRABANG.
On the 25th of July I reached Louang Prabang, a delightful little town,
covering a square mile of ground, and containing a population, not, as
Mgr. Pallegoix says in his work on Siam, of 80,000, but of 7000 or 8000
only. The situation is very pleasant. The mountains which, above and
below this town, enclose the Mekon, form here a kind of circular valley
or amphitheatre, nine miles in diameter, and which, there can be no
doubt, was anciently a lake. It was a charming picture, reminding one
of the beautiful lakes of Como and Geneva. Were it not for the constant
blaze of a tropical sun, or if the mid-day heat were tempered by a
gentle breeze, the place would be a little paradise.
The town is built on both banks of the stream, though the greater
number of the houses are built on the left bank. The most considerable
part of the town surrounds an isolated mount, more than a hundred
metres in height, at the top of which is a pagoda.
Were they not restrained by fear of the Siamese, and their horror of
the jungles so prolific of death, this principality would soon fall
into the hands of the Annamites, who now dare not advance nearer than
seven days’ journey off. A beautiful stream, 100 metres wide, unites
with the great river to the north-east of the town, and leads to some
Laotian and savage villages bearing the name of _Fie_. These are no
other than the tribes called _Penoms_ by the Cambodians, _Khu_ by the
Siamese, and _Moï_ by the Annamites,--all words simply signifying
“savages.”
MOUNTAIN TRIBES.
The whole chain of mountains which extends from the north of Tonquin
to the south of Cochin China, about 100 miles north of Saigon, is
inhabited by this primitive people, divided into tribes speaking
different dialects, but whose manners and customs are the same. All the
villages in the immediate neighbourhood are tributary; those nearest to
the town supply workmen for buildings erected for the king and princes,
and these are heavily taxed. Others pay their tribute in rice.
Their habitations are in the thickest parts of the forests, where they
only can find a path. Their cultivated grounds are to be seen on the
tops and sides of the mountains; in fact, they employ the same means as
wild animals to escape from their enemies, and to preserve that liberty
and independence which are to them, as to all God’s creatures, their
supreme good.
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