Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860Mouhot, Henri
History
Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860
Mouhot, Henri
Cambodia -- Description and travel; Khmer language; Natural history -- Indochina; Thailand -- Description and travel
Yesterday, and the day previous, I was presented to the princes who
govern this little state, and who bear the title of kings. I know not
why, but they displayed for my benefit all they could devise of pomp
and splendour.
The Laotians of Leuye appear to me more industrious than the Siamese,
and, above all, possess a much more adventurous and mercantile spirit;
and although, both physically and morally, there are great points of
resemblance, yet there exist shades of difference which distinguish
them at once, and are apparent in their dialect, or rather patois,
and in their manners, which are more simple and affable. They are all
much alike in features; the women have round faces, small noses, large
almond-shaped eyes, thick hair, the mouth large and strongly-marked;
but the men do not exhibit so great a diversity of race as they do in
Siam.
Alas! what a journey my fragile collection of specimens, so difficult
to gather together, has still to take, and what various accidents may
befall them! Those who in museums contemplate the works of Nature do
not think of all the perseverance, trouble, and anxiety required before
they are safely brought home.
THE LAOTIANS.
The Laotians have not the curiosity of the Siamese, and ask me fewer
questions. I find them more intelligent than either the latter race or
the Cambodians, and among the villagers especially there is a curious
mixture of cunning and simplicity. They do not as yet seem to me to
merit their reputation for hospitality,--a virtue which appeared to be
much more practised in Siam. I should never have obtained any means
of conveyance without the letter from the Viceroy of Korat, and my
experience has been that they are less respectful, but at the same time
less importunate, than the Siamese.
The ground between Leuye and Kenne Thao is hilly, but traversed without
difficulty. The formations are calcareous rocks, sandstone, slaty
sandstone, and lime mixed with clay; the sandstone in long beds, not
in blocks. In the streams I found stones, not boulders, but with sharp
angles.
The Chinese and Indians alone traffic here; it requires a day’s journey
to conclude the smallest bargain, and a whole village is assembled to
make sure that the money is not spurious. On my route here I have not
met a single Siamese, but in every village have seen Birmans, Kariens,
and people from Western Laos. I have found men in Lao-Pouene moulded
like athletes and of herculean strength, and thought that the King of
Siam might raise in this province a fine regiment of grenadiers. In
all the villages I have visited, the inhabitants, including even the
priests, set to work to collect insects for me, glad to receive in
return a few copper buttons, glass beads, or a little red cloth.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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