Travels in the Great Desert of Sahara, in the Years of 1845 and 1846Richardson, James
History
Travels in the Great Desert of Sahara, in the Years of 1845 and 1846
Richardson, James
Sahara -- Description and travel
_3rd._--THE Ayed عيد, succeeding Ramadan, is ushered in with a
cold morning, the first cold morning I have felt in The Desert.
Might venture to put on my cloth pantaloons. Happy to feel this
invigorating cold. This is the little âyed; the âyed kebir, or âyed
Seedna Ibrahim, takes place two months hence, when every family, in
imitation of Abraham offering up his son Isaac, kills or sacrifices
a lamb. The caravan from Bornou reports the road to be good. It is
added, rain has fallen in Ghat as well as in The Sahara, near Tunis
and Tripoli, so that the oasis of Ghadames is the only dry spot, for
no rain has yet fallen.
Had several visits from persons all dressed out in festival finery,
amongst the rest the black dervish. He looked like a dusky Nigritian
Sultan. Twenty paras he condescended to take from me, which added to his
holiday happiness; sometimes he won't accept of money. Now comes Ben
Mousa, my taleb, to pay his respects. Not, as amongst the great unwashed
of London, do they shave for a penny and give a glass of ---- (I shall
not say what), in the bargain, here in Ghadames they shave for nothing.
"How is this," I said to my turjeman who had now come in. "This is the
custom of the country," he replied, "we always shave one another for
friendship." There are several other little things done _gratuitously_ in
Ghadames, but shaving the head is the principal one[43]. He who has the
sharpest razor is expected to do the most work. They cut and hack one
another about most barbarously, some using no soap, only rubbing a little
water over their heads. I have seen a score in a row, all sitting on the
ground, waiting patiently their turn. Some shave the head every month,
others allow several months to elapse. By way of diverting conversation,
my taleb had the extreme kindness to tell me that the Touaricks of Aheer
and Aghadez (not those of Ghat) killed Christians and Jews on the
principle of religion, and would refuse to compound matters, even if I
gave them a thousand dollars. He, however, condescended to add, "They are
_mahboul_ (foolish)." He then went on to boast of the sanctity of this
city, and said, "Our people are not afraid of the Sebâah and Shânbah,
because they are a city of marabouts." The taleb had just come from a
full divan of the people, where the Rais, on this festival morning, had
been haranguing them and flattering their prejudices. "Be assured," said
the Governor, "if the Bashaw knew that you were a holy city, _a city of
dervishes_, a zaweea (or sanctuary), he would write to the Sultan at
Constantinople, and the Sultan, hearing of this, would immediately give
orders that no 6,000 mahboubs were to be exacted from you, but that, on
the contrary, money from the Sultan would be sent to you, holy people." I
wondered that a man of the Rais's sense could so commit himself. What
would he have done if after the âyed, the people had brought a petition
to him, addressed to the Sultan, setting forth that they were "_a city of
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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