Travels in the Great Desert of Sahara, in the Years of 1845 and 1846Richardson, James
History
Travels in the Great Desert of Sahara, in the Years of 1845 and 1846
Richardson, James
Sahara -- Description and travel
Saw Rais in the evening, and had a sort of confidential conversation with
him, and told him for the _first_ time of my intention to proceed further
in the interior. Of course, he had heard of it before from his servants.
Nevertheless, he affected great surprise and sorrow. But, when I told him
I might return in six months hence, he became more calm. He then
persuaded me by all means to avoid the routes of the Touaricks, and
proceed to Fezzan, thence to Bornou. Speaking of the Ghadamsee merchants
and their friends and correspondents, Messrs. Silva, Labe, Shaloum, and
Francovich, in Tripoli, he said, "Your merchants exchange products with
the Ghadamseeah in the way of barter, and make a great deal of money,
whilst the Ghadamseeah have no money left, none at all." He wondered,
like the Touaricks, what the Christians do with all the senna. He
expected the Shânbah, on the route of Ghat, in a few days' time. I
observed, "People are all superbly dressed, and there was not much
appearance of poverty." He smiled, and said, "The people are _sheytan_
(very cunning), they lay up their new clothes, and only wear them on
festivals." Speaking of slaves, his Excellency said, "There is now no
profit on slaves. Government takes ten mahboubs duty on each. A good
slave fetches 40,000 wadâ (cowries) in Soudan, usual price 30,000, and
some as low as 15,000. A good slave sells in Ghadames for forty
mahboubs." The Rais told me to take care of the vermin, and abused the
filthiness of the people. If I escape the Touaricks and the fevers as
well as I escape the vermin, which abound on the clothes of all the
people without exception, I shall consider myself fortunate. The
inhabitants of Ghadames make no scruple in attacking the enemy in the
public streets, which stick to them closer than their dearest friends. I
attribute my escape to my being an infidel, for their orthodox l-i-c-e
won't have anything to do with Kafers.
People look worse than during the Ramadan. Poor creatures, they have
little to eat; they say they have nothing but barley-meal and dates to
eat, for the Turks have taken away all their money. Some, however, as a
luxury, which their relations and friends send them from Soudan,
masticate _ghour_[44]-nuts, and which I believe is the _kolat_, or
colat-nut of Caillié. The Arabs called these nuts the "_Coffee of
Soudan_." Konja is a great place for the growth of the ghour, two or
three months west of Kanou.
_5th._--Weather gets colder every day. I was reflecting on the best
situation for a Consul in Northern Sahara. The point would be Touat, the
nucleus of many routes, the great highways of commerce in The Desert.
From this point a British Consul could keep a sharp look-out on the
French, moving southward.
A Mussulman doctor told me with great solemnity this morning, that five
hundred years were necessary to go round the world. Two hundred years
desert (ك٘لع), or nothing, or containing--
"(God's) _dark materials to create more worlds_."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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