Travels in the Great Desert of Sahara, in the Years of 1845 and 1846Richardson, James
History
Travels in the Great Desert of Sahara, in the Years of 1845 and 1846
Richardson, James
Sahara -- Description and travel
These huge blocks we had long in view, and approached and passed them
just as a ship passes rocks on the sea-coast. So steady is our progress,
so level our route. Ground strewn over with small flints and other sharp
chips of stone. Saw nothing alive in The Desert but one solitary bird,
which seemed lost in the illimitable waste. Passed the grave of one who
had died in open desert, a small tumulus of stones marked the sad spot;
passed also a few white-bleached camel's bones. Very cold, wind from
north-east. Feel it more than the keenest winter's blast of Old England.
Feel glad I took the advice of the Governor of Ghadames, and purchased a
quantity of warm woollen clothing, heik, bornouse, and jibbah. "That
route (Ghat) kills people with the cold," his Excellency observed.
_27th._--Arrived at the well of Maseen, at 4 P.M. Much the same scenery
as yesterday. The road good, not quite so stony as yesterday, and
scattered over with pieces of very fine quartz and shining felspar. No
sand in quantity, and a little herbage for camels. Wind as yesterday, but
more of it. Maseen is a tolerably deep well, but the water is not very
sweet. About it there are three or four stunted date-palms, and several
shrubby sprouts, pointing the Saharan wayfarer to the well's site. One
of the trees bore fruit this year, but the palm rarely bears fruit in
open desert. No bird or animal of any sort seen to-day. The camels crop
herbage _en route_ as usual. On the whole, however, we proceed pretty
quickly. I imagine about three miles the hour, for a man must walk a
sharp pace to keep up well with the camels. Our people eat nothing in the
morning; two or three, perhaps, may eat a cake and a few dates. They
literally fast all day long and take their _one_ meal at about seven in
the evening. I can't support this, and take tea in the morning, besides
munching dates at intervals through the day. Nay, I feel ravenous, under
the influence of the bleak air of The Desert. About an hour before
sunrise all the people get up and make large fires, warming their feet
and legs, for these are mostly bare and are very sensible to the cold.
I'm sorry I've been obliged to scold Said twice, once for running away
from my camel after other people's, and once for rough and saucy
language. But I must make the best of him; might easily get a worse
servant. Glad the eldest son of the Sheikh Makouran has joined the
caravan; he came riding after us this evening, attended with a Touarick,
both mounted on maharees, well equipped and capable of scouring The
Desert.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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