Travels in the Great Desert of Sahara, in the Years of 1845 and 1846Richardson, James
History
Travels in the Great Desert of Sahara, in the Years of 1845 and 1846
Richardson, James
Sahara -- Description and travel
But here in the centre of this wilderness of sand we had an abundant
proof of the goodness of a good God. Whilst mourning over this horrible
scene of monotonous desolation, and wondering why such regions were
created in vain, we came upon _The Wells of Mislah_, where we encamped
for the day. These are not properly wells, for the sand being removed in
various places, about four or five feet below the surface, the water
runs out. Indeed, we were obliged to make our own wells. Each party of
the ghafalah dug a well for itself. Ghafalahs are divided into so many
parties, varying in size from five men and twenty camels, to ten men and
forty camels. Three or four wells were dug out in this way. Some of the
places had been scooped out before. Water may be found through all the
valley of Mislah. A few dwarfish palms are in the valley, but which don't
bear fruit. The camels, finding nothing else to eat, attacked voraciously
their branches. It is surprising the sand is not more scattered over the
wells and trees, for on the south-west is a lofty sand-hill, deserving
the name of a mountain, almost overhanging the pits. Here is a sufficient
proof, at once, that The Desert has no sandy waves like the Desert Ocean
of waters, as poets and credulous or exaggerating writers have been
pleased to inform us. Were this the case, the wells of Mislah would have
been long ago heaped up and over with pile upon pile of sand-hills, and
caravans would have abandoned for ever this line of route. For we can
hardly suppose that one sand-storm would cover the pits of Mislah with a
mountain pile of sand, and the next sand-storm uncover them and lay them
bare to the amazed Saharan traveller. On the contrary, the pits of Mislah
and the stunted palms have every appearance of having remained as they
now are for centuries. The hills are huge groups, some single ones,
glaring in sun above the rest, and others pyramidical. The sand at times
is also very firm to the camel's tread. Shall I say a _terra firma_ in
loose shifting sands? But for the water of Mislah it is extremely
brackish, nay salt. I had observed between the sand-hills small valleys,
or bottoms, covered with, a whitish substance which I now find salt. Both
men and camels are alike condemned to drink this water. I try it with
boiling and tea and find it worse, and cannot drink it, so I'm obliged to
beg of our people the remaining sweet water of Nather, left in the skins.
Our people confess themselves, in summer when this water gets hot they
can scarcely drink it, being veritable brine. An European travelling this
route should always provide himself with water enough at the well of
Nather to last him from six to eight days. My skin-bags have got out of
order, and I did not make inquiries of the people about this well. At one
well a traveller should always make inquiry about the water of the next
well. This is indispensable if an European tourist would have water fit
to drink.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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