Travels in the Great Desert of Sahara, in the Years of 1845 and 1846Richardson, James
History
Travels in the Great Desert of Sahara, in the Years of 1845 and 1846
Richardson, James
Sahara -- Description and travel
This morning paid another visit to Haj Ahmed, the Governor. Found him
very friendly. He talked politics. I explained to him the circumstances
of the war between France and Morocco, suppressing the most disagreeable
parts for a Mahometan. In the course of conversation I was surprised to
hear from Haj Ahmed, "Now, since these twelve years, Tripoli belongs to
the English." I used vainly all my eloquence in Arabic to convince him of
this error, which has been propagated since the removal of Asker Ali from
the Pashalic of Tripoli at the instance of the British Consul. I then
spoke to his Excellency of the necessity of sending some trifling
presents to the Queen of England, as a sign of friendship, begging him to
speak to Shafou. He replied, "The Touaricks have nothing but camels."
The Governor has a tremendous family. First of all, he has seven wives
and concubines, then nine sons and six daughters. One of his female
slaves repeated to me all their names, a complete muster-roll. When I
visited the Governor again, I congratulated him upon having so large a
family. He observed smiling, with great self-complacency, "Why, Yâkob, do
you call this a large family? What is a large family with you?" I told
him eight and even six children was a large family. At this he affected
great surprise, for he had heard that generally European females have
three or four children at a birth. Haj Ahmed is a man of about fifty,
rather good-looking, stout and hard-working, but inclining to corpulency,
very unusual in The Desert. He is not very dark, and is of Arab
extraction, and boasts that his family came from Mecca or Medina. He
pretends that his ancestors were amongst the warriors who besieged
Constantinople, previous to its capture by the Turks. He is a native of
Touat, but has been settled here twenty years, where he has built himself
a palace and planted large gardens. He is a shrewd and politic man, and
has, in a certain degree, those jealous feelings of Christians which are
peculiar to the Moor. He dresses partly in the Moorish and partly in the
Touarick style, indeed, like all the Moors of Ghat, who are called
Ghateen. He is, perhaps, not very learned, but is assisted by his nephew,
a young Shereef of great learning and amiable manners. I asked some of
the Ghatee people, who was their Sultan? They replied, "Haj Ahmed; Shafou
is not our Sultan." The Touaricks, however, have absolute control over
all affairs, and Haj Ahmed stands in the same relation to Shafou, being
governor of the town, as the Sheikh El-Mokhtar, who is governor of
Timbuctoo, under the Sultan of Jinnee. But, Haj Ahmed, himself, disclaims
all temporal authority, he repeatedly says in our conversation, "I am not
Sheikh, or Kaëd, I'm only Marabout. All the people here are equal. When
you write to the Consul, tell him I'm only Marabout." The fact is, there
are so many Sheikhs here that it is no honour to be a Sheikh. The honour
is too cheap to be valued, and is as much repudiated as a French Cross of
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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