From Tripoli to The Mountains 3 days. " The Mountains to Seenawan 3 " " Seenawan to Ghadames 3 " The French geographers, for some reason, have made Ghadames situate upon a salt plain, confounding its site with the salt plain of _Emjessen_. There is no salt plain in the suburbs of Ghadames, or the country near. According to the _official_ letter of the Porte, written by Ali Effendi, Minister of Foreign Affairs, the oasis is situate in the _Caimakat de Jibel Garbigi_. As I did not receive the Porte's memorandum of my recall from Ghadames until my return, I made no inquiries of this mountain _Garbigi_, but I imagine it exists, though I never heard its name. Ghadames is situate in 30° 9′ north latitude, and in 9° 18′ east longitude. _25th._--I find my house, which had been prepared for me by the kindness of the Sheikh Haj Mohammed Makouran, very commodious and tolerably clean, and I make myself at home. It is situate in the suburbs, close by the Governor's house. I now tried to get a nap, but could not. Then I went to bathe in the Mysterious Spring, whence springs up this city as an emerald amidst a waste of stone and sand! Intend bathing every day if I can. Saw Essnousee again, and many of the merchants whom I had seen at Tripoli. Found them all civil. But the people who most excited my attention were the Touaricks, whom I now saw for the first time. Many of them were here at this time for trading purposes. They expressed as much astonishment at seeing me as I them, some exclaiming, "God! God! how could the Infidel come here?" Late in the afternoon, after napping, went again into the city: was much pleased with its appearance. Thought it better than Tripoli, considering the position of the respective places, Tripoli on the edge of the sea, and open to all the world, and Ghadames in the midst of The Desert, far from the shores of the Mediterranean. No poor are seen begging about the streets, and all the people look well dressed today. They had put on their holiday clothes, which is usual on the arrival of a large caravan. What a contrast was this to the squalor and filth of Tripoli, with its miserable beggars choking up all the thoroughfares! No women were seen about but the half-castes, mostly slaves, but plenty of children playing here and there. I heard amongst them the whisper of "The Kafer, the Kafer!" as I passed by.