Travels in the Interior of Brazil: Principally through the northern provinces, and the gold and diamond districts, during the years 1836-1841Gardner, George
History
Travels in the Interior of Brazil: Principally through the northern provinces, and the gold and diamond districts, during the years 1836-1841
Gardner, George
Brazil -- Description and travel; Mines and mineral resources -- Brazil
A journey of fourteen leagues brought us to the Villa de Parnaguá,
the most southern town in the province, the country still continuing
flat, and very similar to that through which we had already passed. The
whole journey from Oeiras, presented little that was interesting in a
geological point of view, the only rocks which occurred being of the
same character as those existing in the vicinity of the city itself. The
peculiar construction of the houses on the road, so very different from
those met with in any other part of Brazil, or even in Piauhy itself,
attracted my attention: they are built for the most part with one of
their ends to the road, and in this end there is a large apartment with a
table and a form, evidently intended for the accommodation of travellers,
as it has no direct communication with the rest of the house. The door
of the part inhabited by the family, is in the other end, and on this
account it is very seldom that any of the females of the family are seen,
they being kept strictly secluded. Should the house stand parallel to the
road, then the door to the travellers’ apartment opens in front, while
the door and windows of the other apartments are all in the back part.
A stranger may thus live at one of these houses for many days, without
the slightest knowledge of what is going on within. The ladies are not,
however, destitute of curiosity, as I have frequently detected a pair of
black eyes peering through some slit in the fragile partitions to get a
peep at the strangers. Yet, as a professional man, it was seldom I was
not admitted, being called in to prescribe for some one or other of the
females of the family; the sedentary life which they lead rendering them
very subject to dyspeptic and such like complaints. Ague is also very
common indeed, and nearly all the inhabitants suffer from the effects of
it. Mr. Darwin, in his Journal, mentions that there are few houses in
Chili where a traveller will not be received for the night, but a trifle
is expected to be given in the morning, and that even a rich man will
accept two or three shillings. In Brazil this is very different; on the
road from Rio de Janeiro to the Mining Districts, which is now very much
frequented, there are always houses to be found which serve as apologies
for inns, and in which the traveller is expected to pay; but should he
put up at any of the large fazendas he is allowed to sit free at the
table, paying only for such provender as his animals may require. In the
more distant parts of the country, I always met with the most unbounded
hospitality, even from the poorer classes, and often the only recompense
which these poor beings would accept was a little gunpowder or salt,
articles which very often are not to be procured at any price.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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