Travels in the Interior of Brazil: Principally through the northern provinces, and the gold and diamond districts, during the years 1836-1841Gardner, George
History
Travels in the Interior of Brazil: Principally through the northern provinces, and the gold and diamond districts, during the years 1836-1841
Gardner, George
Brazil -- Description and travel; Mines and mineral resources -- Brazil
The Rio San Francisco being only thirty-two leagues to the southward
of Maceio, and learning that it was navigable, without interruption,
for upwards of a hundred miles, I resolved to visit it. A Portuguese
gentleman, however, to whom I was directed for information on the
subject, having, a few years before, made the voyage up to the great
falls (Cachoeira de Paulo Affonço), informed me that as it was then the
season at which the river rises to its greatest height, the head waters
being far to the south, he would not advise me to undertake the voyage,
in consequence of the dangerous navigation at the period of the floods,
as well as from the little chance there would be of my adding much
to my collection, from the dried up state in which I should find the
vegetation, owing to the long continued drought. Still I determined to
go, as nothing better presented itself to pass the time, and hitherto,
moreover, I had always found the difficulties of travelling much less
than they were represented to be. I considered myself fortunate in being
able to hire, as a servant, the black who accompanied the gentleman above
alluded to.
Having made the necessary preparations for the voyage, I engaged a
jangada to take me along the coast to the mouth of the river, and left
Maceio at five o’clock A.M., on the morning of the 15th of February. I
intended to leave at eleven o’clock the night before, at the rising of
the moon, but when I reached the beach with my luggage, the owner of the
jangada was nowhere to be found, although he had faithfully promised to
be waiting for me. I immediately sent Pedro, my black servant, in search
of him, who soon afterwards returned unsuccessful; and I had no resource
but to walk backwards and forwards on the beach till shortly before five
o’clock in the morning, when he made his appearance. On questioning
him about his absence, he told me with the greatest coolness, that as
I did not arrive exactly when the moon rose, he thought I should not
come till morning, and that, in order to pass the time, he had gone out
to fish. Having at length embarked, we soon lost sight of Maceio under
the influence of a strong north-east wind, and, coasting along a flat
shrubby shore, we arrived at night at the mouth of a small river, on the
south bank of which, about a mile up, there is a little village called
Batel. At this place, which is twenty leagues distant from Maceio, we
remained for the night. I preferred sleeping in the jangada to one of the
small cocoa-nut-leaf cottages that was offered to me, but I had reason
to repent of having done so. It was full tide when we arrived at the
village, and the jangada was brought close to the shore, so that when
the tide ebbed it was left dry. I did not then recollect that all muddy
shores covered with mangroves, particularly at the mouths of rivers,
abound with mosquitos, but I was soon reminded of the fact by being awoke
about midnight with my face and hands smarting and swollen from the bites
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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