From _Comorwa_ we proceed in two hours and a half to _Dobral_, leaving in view to the right hand a large Turkish town called _Cornibat_, famous for dying, and preparing the fine purple and yellow leather of this country, which it vends in great quantities. From _Dobral_ we begin to ascend the foot of _Haemus_, where the way winds so artificially, as to take away the difficulty of ascent. Here crossing a rapid river, which forms its chanel in the body of the mountain, and thro a variety of diverting shades and clifts, we arrive at length at an open plain on the top of the hill, and therein at a true country paradise of Bulgar Christians called _Challikcavák_[113]; where a new church has been lately obtained for the inhabitants, by the interest of Count _Oetingh_, embassador extraordinary from his Imperial Majesty. Here the damsels of the parish entertained us this evening with a dance, which tho performed with no great art or variety, yet had a certain plainness and simplicity, which was truly grateful. The women here wear as ornaments, a sort of cravat consisting of various silver coins, and large bossy silver bracelets; who dismissed us the next morning with corn strewed in our way. April xiv. On the top of the hill we proceed for some time in a level road, thro a stately grove of oaks; after which the way begins to descend, and being shortened by the pleasure of the shady scene on each side, leads unexpectedly into the adjoining plain. In this we travel about an hour, near the foot of the delightful _Haemus_, and then find our quarters ready to receive us at a Christian village, called _Trágoe_. And indeed all the villages, which we had hitherto passed from _Adrianople_, were intirely inhabited by Christians, who by nation are Bulgarians, but by their faith of the Greek communion. April xv.