“Having ordered supper, I gazed with rapture on the Occoquan River,
which ran close to the house, and, gradually enlarging, emptied itself
into the capacious bosom of the Potomac. The fishermen on the shore
were hawling their seine, and the sails of a little bark, stemming the
waves, were distended by the breeze of night. The seaboy was lolling
over the bow, and the helmsman was warbling a song to his absent fair.
“The next day I proceeded to Occoquan; but so steep and craggy was
the road that I found it almost inaccessible. On descending the last
hill, I was nearly stunned by the noise of two huge mills, whose roar,
without any hyperbolical aggravation, is scarcely inferior to that of
the great falls of the Potomac, or the cataract of Niagara. My horse
would not advance; and I was myself lost in astonishment.
“Friend Ellicott and his wife received me with an unaffected simplicity
of manners, whom I was happy to catch just as they were going to
dinner. An exquisite Virginia ham smoked on the board, and two damsels
supplied the guests with boiled Indian corn, which they had gathered
with their own hands. Friend Ellicott, uncorrupted by the refinement of
modern manners, had put his hat to its right use, for it covered his
head.
“Our agreement was soon made. Quakers are men of few words. Friend
Ellicott engaged me to educate his children for a quarter of a year. He
wanted them taught reading, writing, and arithmetic. Delightful task!
As to Latin or French, he considered the study of either language an
abuse of time; and very calmly desired me not to say another word about
it.
“No place can be more romantic than the view of Occoquan to a stranger,
after crossing the rustic bridge, which has been constructed by the
inhabitants across its stream. He contemplates a river urging its
course along mountains that lose themselves among the clouds; he
beholds vessels taking on board flour under the foam of the mills, and
others deeply laden expanding their sails to the breeze; while every
face wears contentment, every gale wafts health, and echo from the
rocks multiplies the voices of the waggoners calling to their teams.
“No walk could be more delightful than that from Occoquan to
Colchester, when the moon was above the mountains. You traverse the
bank of a placid stream over which impend rocks, in some cases bare,
but more frequently covered with an odoriferous plant that regales the
traveller with its fragrance. So serpentine is the course of the river
that the mountains, which rise from its bank, may be said to form an
amphitheatre; and nature seems to have designed the spot for the haunt
only of fairies; for here grow flowers of purple dye, and here the
snake throws her enamelled skin.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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