Travels in Western Africa in 1845 & 1846, Volume 1 (of 2): comprising a journey from Whydah through the Kingdom of Dahomey to Adofoodia in the interiorDuncan, John
History
Travels in Western Africa in 1845 & 1846, Volume 1 (of 2): comprising a journey from Whydah through the Kingdom of Dahomey to Adofoodia in the interior
Duncan, John
Africa, West -- Description and travel; Benin -- Description and travel
After passing over the top of a gently sloping hill, between two
beautiful and well-cultivated valleys (the spot where the Ashantees
fought and were defeated in one of their most determined battles,)
ornamented by beautiful trees, much like the tulip-tree in full
blossom, we reached a small kroom called America, probably so named
by the European settlers. Here we again halted and took a draught of
water. Around this little kroom the land is cultivated, and there are
several very lofty trees, very straight and spiral in form, so that it
is evident how good the soil must be. This place is eighteen miles from
Cape Coast. After resting half an hour, we set out on our last stage,
rather fagged from the roughness of the road, and in half an hour
reached Djewkwa, a pleasant little town, with houses tolerably well
built of mud and very roomy. They are constructed also with a degree of
regularity seldom seen in African towns. Not having sent any messenger
forwards to announce our approach, as is usual in Africa, the caboceer
was unprepared to receive us, and we were, therefore, told to wait a
little, a house having been shown to us in which we might stay till he
could see us. We waited until we lost all patience, and were obliged
to lie down under a large tree in the market-place. Very large ants
tormented us cruelly, both by their teeth and stings.
At length the caboceer announced his readiness to receive us, and we
had to repair to another part of the town where he dwelt. His house is
the best in the town, and in front of it we found him seated in his
chair of state, a rudely constructed wooden chair covered with brass
nails, under a large spreading tree; chairs and stools were placed for
all our party. The great man, however, was so drunk as to be wholly
unfit to go through the ceremony of formally receiving us, and we were
obliged to content ourselves by receiving an apology, as he candidly
confessed his drunkenness and inability to receive us according to the
custom of the country. He then retired, and left us under the care of
his son, who was very willing to make himself agreeable by quaffing
various tumblers of wine and ale, which we had brought, as well as
several glasses of brandy and gin. He, consequently, soon showed
symptoms of intoxication as well as his father, and continued the
palaver till eleven o’clock, when we were allowed to retire to our
lodgings for the night, where we were each provided with a mat, the
only article of furniture considered by this people as necessary.
In the planting season, it appears, the farmers quit their houses in
the town, and go to some distance, to be near the fields; other empty
houses belong to people who go into the interior to seek for gold, and
who are absent for some months.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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