Travels in Western Africa in 1845 & 1846, Volume 1 (of 2): comprising a journey from Whydah through the Kingdom of Dahomey to Adofoodia in the interiorDuncan, John
History
Travels in Western Africa in 1845 & 1846, Volume 1 (of 2): comprising a journey from Whydah through the Kingdom of Dahomey to Adofoodia in the interior
Duncan, John
Africa, West -- Description and travel; Benin -- Description and travel
On the same evening we anchored off Ahguay, another of the greatest
slave-marts on the coast of Africa; and on the following morning went
on shore in one of Mr. Hutton’s canoes, which we brought from Cape
Coast, as well as a crew of canoemen, as there is great difficulty at
times when shipping slaves in obtaining them, for they are generally
themselves slaves, and their masters invariably slave-dealers,
Spaniards and Portuguese. In fact, all the natives here who can afford
it are all concerned in this traffic.
After landing, we proceeded to Mr. Hutton’s factory, on the south
side of the town, facing the sea, distant half a mile, over a bed
of loose dry sand, and always very hot. The sea-breeze, however,
renders it less distressing. Upon nearing the factory, we were met
by the caboceer, a tall fat man, with bloodshot eyes. He appeared to
be a complete specimen of the drunken sot, which I found to be truly
the case. He wore a country cloth round his loins, and a light blue
hat, too small for him. On his wrists he had heavy iron bracelets,
rudely manufactured. On this occasion he was attended by his principal
captains, or headmen, but what in any civilized country would be called
a disgusting rabble. About twenty or thirty had old Danish muskets,
with which they kept up an irregular fire when the guns were inclined
to go off, which was seldom the case more than once out of four times.
A great many, however, never broke silence, running round their chief
like so many loose hounds, and performing the most ludicrous and
disgusting gestures, to show, as they imagined, their great superiority
to strangers.
This remarkable cavalcade was accompanied by the principal of the
fetish-women. Her dress or surplice was of the most grotesque
description. On her head was a fore-and-aft hat, in the form of a naval
cocked hat, made of grass or rushes, manufactured like our rush baskets
in England; a number of greegrees, or charms, were suspended round
her neck. Her lower garment, or official costume, was a thick coat of
thatch of the long grass, one end plaited into a band about four feet
long. This band is tied round the body, the loose ends of the grass
hanging downwards in the form of the Highlander’s kilt, but not quite
so good looking. The fetish-woman also wears on these state occasions
a sheep or goat’s skull on her forehead, outside her rush cap. She also
carries two rude wooden batons, one in each hand. She dances to the
music of her two batons, beating on each other, her motion being about
as graceful as a haycock shaken on the top of a haymaker’s pitchfork.
Her body is white-washed with a very fine lime, manufactured from the
oyster-shell, which is here in great abundance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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